So, I continue telling the tales of my adventures back in April...
After day tripping around Da Nang, I made my way to the quaint little city of Hoi An, where I spent the remainder of my time in Central Vietnam. This charming place is full of culture and history, and there are lanterns pretty much everywhere you look. I learned that it was virtually untouched during the American War (as they call it...), thanks to cooperation on both sides. Hoi An is now a Unesco World Heritage Site, which means it is protected by specific laws that preserve its unique heritage and history.
Basically, this place is amazing. This post is a bit lengthy because I saw quite a bit in my short time in Hoi An. By the way... My little iPhone camera doesn't do this city any justice. At all.
#thisishoian
Monday Night: Welcome to Hoi An
When researching hotels and places to stay, I stumbled onto a cute little homestay in a small fishing village about 5 km from Hoi An. I think the greatest selling point for me was the proximity to the beach. After spending the morning exploring Ba Na Hills, I checked into my adorable little homestay and promptly made my way to the beach.
My new home for the next couple of days
The little gate that lead to the house
My bedroom was small but full of natural light. I absolutely loved it.
It even had a closet and a safe, as well as a fridge stocked with plenty of bottled water and other snacks.
The shower was actually in the floor, but this is rather typical in Southeast Asia.
There were many windows in this little room, and we were tucked away on a quiet little road in this fishing village.
I also had a balcony! I was in love.
After changing into my swimsuit, I left the house to find the beach. Fewer than 100 steps later, I found myself in the sand. I sat and watched the sunset over the water, and I was instantly in my happy place.
Ok... if you insist!
The little pathway to the beach
Found it!
The beach was tucked away, and many locals don't even know about it. That was perfectly fine by me, as I had most of the beach to myself for sunset.
Happy.
Sunset on the water... my favorite 💗
When the sun went down, I went back to the house to change into dry clothes and meet up with Hung, the son of the family that owns and runs this homestay. He had promised me a trip into town to show me around a little bit. He was incredibly hospitable, and it's the first time in my life that I have managed to ride a motorbike without being terrified out of my mind. In fact, it was kind of fun.
Hung took me to his favorite street vendor and bought me banh mi, which is a Vietnamese sandwich. We walked over to a street corner by the river where his friends hang out, and I sat with them on little plastic chairs on the curbside. Hung and his friends spoke in Vietnamese while I ate my sandwich and watched tourists pass by without seeing us. I noticed that my banh mi tasted different from the one I had eaten in Hanoi. Hung explained to me that food is different in the three different regions of Vietnam: In the north (Hanoi), the food is hot, like comfort food. It is meant to keep people warm when the weather is bad, since they have more of the four seasons than the rest of the country. The food in the middle (Hoi An) is hot, like spicy hot because it is a tropical place. The food in the south (Saigon) is sweet because the weather is so hot and humid that people need a distraction from the heat. As I ate my way through Vietnam, I found Hung's descriptions to be very accurate. (In case you're wondering, my favorite food came from the north, but it was all very tasty!)
The street vendor who made my deliciously spicy banh mi - Hung bought it for me because he got a better price as a local than I would have gotten as a tourist. (That is typical in Southeast Asia.)
My first glimpse of lanterns (and motorbikes!)
The streets in Old Town are closed to motor traffic (cars and motorbikes), so people are able to walk through the streets freely.
We walked past the Japanese Covered Bridge, which is one of the most famous sites in Hoi An. It was really pretty when it was lit up at night.
I told you it was pretty famous - it is on the back of the 20.000 VND!
I absolutely loved the lanterns everywhere 😍
My dinner spot, where I sat and ate with the locals... such a cool experience.
We walked around a bit more, and Hung told me about Hoi An. He said it has changed quite a bit over the years, as more and more Western tourists have come to the area. I admired how much he loves his city. You could hear it in his voice as he talked about Hoi An and its people.
We stumbled onto Bai Choi in the street, which is a type of BINGO game. There were musicians playing instruments, people dressed in costume, and a couple of singers who were singing folk music. Hung told me about the songs: The man was smitten by the woman and begging for her love, and she was totally not interested. I guess certain stories are universal!
There were chairs everywhere, but also these little huts with platforms where people could climb up and sit. First we sat in a plastic chair, but then we moved up to a hut so that I could have both experiences. You pay to play, and for only a few dollars, you could buy a paddle (like a BINGO card). Occasionally the musicians would draw a stick from a bucket. If your paddle had the icon/word on it, then a little man dressed in yellow brought you a flag. Once you collect three flags, you win! Bingo! Er... Bai Choi? I was so close to winning once, and the second time I completely tanked and got no flags. Either way, I didn't really care. I was entrances by the music, and the little man in the yellow outfit was hilarious and adorable all at the same time. It was such a cool way to spend my first hot evening in Hoi An.
Watch a complete round of Bai Choi here.
Bai Choi Hoi An
The "stage"
People trying to buy paddles for the next game.
How could you not be excited to get a flag from this guy??
My not-so-lucky paddle (game board), and my new favorite guy dressed in yellow.
These performers drew sticks from a small bucket, and then a person would walk around with the larger paddle so that the players could see the selection. The paddles were hung on a board so you could check your board as you played.
The little man brought me a yellow flag! IT WAS SO EXCITING.
Unfortunately I didn't win the round, but this guy did. He won a lantern, which was very fitting for Hoi An.
This guy played the erhu - an instrument with 2 strings and a bow.
View inside the little hut platform thing where we sat for our second game.
My second paddle was even more unlucky than the first, but I had a blast playing the game and watching the performers.
This was the little hut next to mine, and the sidewalk where we were nestled.
Hung drove us back to the homestay. As we got closer, we suddenly noticed that all the lights were out. Apparently a transformer blew, and a bunch of neighborhoods were without power (including ours). It was a hot sweaty night, but I'm used to power outages. We have them a lot in Yangon - especially during hot season and rainy season. Hung was prepared with some pretty powerful battery-operated lanterns and flashlights, and he quickly set up a mosquito tent for my bed so I could sleep with the doors and windows open. I was worried that I would be too hot to sleep, but it turns out I was wrong... I slept almost 10 hours that night! I guess sometimes you literally need to unplug.
This is what I walked into as I entered the house.
Luckily, Hung was prepared!
I sleep with a mosquito net at home, so I comfortably nestled into my little bed. I kept the air con remote near me in case the power came back overnight. (It did, eventually. But I slept in the fresh air all night.)
Tuesday: Exploring Hoi An on my own
I awoke the next morning feeling refreshed. I showered and headed downstairs to breakfast. Hung's mom had cooked me an amazing spread, and I devoured all of it. She spoke almost no English, but we managed a pleasant little "chat," as she was used to communicating with English-speaking guests, and I have worked with English learners for almost a decade now. She offered me some fresh crab that she had gotten at the market that morning. I'm not usually a crab person, but I never turn down food when I am visiting a new culture. IT WAS SO GOOD. Hung's mom actually had to help me crack into the crab (sorry vegetarian friends!), and at first it was a bit weird for me, but then I tasted how fresh it was. Holy crap, that was delicious! And the passionfruit was a scrumptious little dessert. (Yes, I am allowed dessert for breakfast... I was on vacation!)
Every single thing was fresh and delicious...
...including the crab!
Omg the coffee... quite possibly the best I have EVER had!
After breakfast, Hung pointed out a few points of interest on the map, and then I biked the 5 kilometers into town. In addition to its lanterns and Unesco World Heritage status, Hoi An is also famous for its tailoring. You can have clothing and shoes made to order. I'm not much of a fashion/clothing person. However, that morning I finally decided that I may as well check it out. When in Rome, right?
My first stop was the tailor. I did not do a great job negotiating price because I got a little confused. Most places in Vietnam list things without the thousands after it. For example, if something costs 115.000 VND, it will usually be listed on a sign as 115. So when I was negotiating with the tailor, I thought we were talking VND when we were actually talking USD. So I probably (definitely) could have gotten a much better price, but I still paid way less that I would have paid for two dresses in a department stores in the States. Considering my dresses were handmade, I couldn't be too mad at myself for that.
As I sat there flipping through the book, picking out fabric, and getting my measurements taken, I started to feel like a princess. I was amazed to find out that my dresses (yes... two of them!) would be ready for me tomorrow.
My mode of transportation during my stay in Hoi An. #ecotourist
There were many people offering boat rides for a fee. I passed on all of them, as I really wanted to explore the city on foot.
More of the riverfront on my walk to the market.
There were little vendors along the roads. Many of them were wearing traditional hats.
I loved all the little lanterns everywhere. Old Town sort of reminded me of Key West with a twist.
The fresh produce market was very colorful.
Inside the market, there were many aisles with permanent booths. My tailor was down one of these aisles, past all the shoes.
I left the market and set out to explore Ancient Town. In order to visit, you are required to buy a ticket that grants you access to the quarter, as well as five heritage sites. Hung had recommended several sites to me that morning, as there are almost two dozen to choose from.
This is where I bought my ticket.
Each ticket has these parts that tear off. They collected them at each site that I visited, but you only need the actual ticket to walk the streets. They did not really check these tickets in the streets until sundown, when the streets got busier with incoming nightlife.
My first stop was at the Assembly Hall of the Hainan Chinese Congregation. It was built in 1851 in memory of 108 merchants from Hainan Island who were killed because they were mistaken for pirates. The building was very ornate, and there were interesting things everywhere I looked.
This is where they collected one of my ticket stubs.
Loved this twisted old tree.
More turtles amongst all the dragons!
The architecture was beautiful, and I loved exploring the grounds. But it was scorching hot in the late morning sun. (Did you notice that most people in my pictures were carrying umbrellas? It was to protect from the intensity of the sun!) I stopped into a little shop and paid way too much money for a small umbrella, but as soon as I opened it up, I decided it was worth every single penny.
I was amazed to feel the difference that the umbrella made. Once I was several degrees cooler, I realized how hungry I was. I set out to find a restaurant that Hung had suggested. I followed the map he had given me because it was not a place that would be listed on Google Maps. I walked up and down the street several times, and then I realized that the place didn't open for another couple of hours. I decided to sit in a cafe and cool off with an iced coffee before heading back down to Old Town.
Life suddenly got so much better. Also, Go Gators! #ibleedorangeandblue
Every single calorie was worth it!
The main reason I decided to have coffee instead of a full meal was so that I could make it back to the Handcraft Workshop. Not only did they have beautiful handmade art and other interesting merchandise, but they also had a live performance that Hung told me I would love. (He was right. Again!)
I wandered around the workshop and admired the beautiful lanterns and other crafts. There was a courtyard and workspaces inside the old house.
I decided this was the place I would buy my painting in Vietnam. I collect little pieces of artwork from places that are very meaningful to me. I usually buy it from a street artist or vendor. I had a long conversation with one of the workers about the beautiful artwork she was showing me in the back room, which happened to be the artist's workspace.
I fell in love with my painting as soon as I saw it. Women are very important in Vietnam. She explained that women are important because they are the givers of life. In this painting, the four women represent the four regions of Vietnam. Even their hair styles have meaning. I explain it in more detail in the caption below.
As I paid for my new painting, she made a comment that made me smile: "You are relaxed and positive." This country has definitely been good for me :-)
From left to right, these women represent Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Hoi An, Ha Noi, and Hue. The Saigon woman is in white because it is more modern and trendy, and by far the most Westernized region in the country. The Hoi An woman has her hair up because it is very hot in the center of Vietnam. The Ha Noi woman has a simple, more functional hair style for the capital city life. And the woman who is Hue wears her hair in a traditional fashion because the area is old, sacred, and traditional.
After buying my painting, I settled into my seat early because I heard it got busy right before performance time (it did!). They passed out little paddles that I recognized as Bai Choi (the BINGO game from the previous night). There were many performers, including singers, dancers, and people playing traditional instruments. I recognized one of the women from Bai Choi in the street performance the night before, and it reinforced for me that people here work many, many hours.
Sadly, I didn't take any videos. I was too wrapped up in the performances. I think you can tell from that pictures that the performances were exciting and full of life.
View of the stage and the beautiful lanterns from the back of the room. My seat was front and center.
I knew what game was coming!
Views from my seat.
Traditional instruments
After the performance, I was so happy and artistically fulfilled - but also starving! I made my way back to the street I was wandering before, but instead of finding the recommended spot, I was drawn to this street food cart. I love street food more than restaurants in this country, so I ordered this chicken rice dish from the lady. It was delicious.
For some reason, this woman reminded me of my grandmother when she was alive. I'm not sure if it's her clothes, her posture, or the fact that she put out her cigarette before plating my dish, but something drew me to her. Maybe the dish was delicious because it was made with love... I miss you, grandma 💕
So happy with my lunch choice!
After lunch, I wandered down through the lantern-strewn streets. So cute.
I came to the Tan Ky House, which is an old house that has survived seven generations. The house went all the way through to another street. There were also marks on the wall that recorded the floods over the years, as it was right on the riverfront.
I continued along the riverfront to the Cantonese Assembly Hall. This was probably my favorite spot (hence, the overload of pictures... #sorrynotsorry). It was a very ornate and colorful building with a lot of detail, and in the back garden there was a really weird/cool dragon statue.
I almost missed the back garden because of the non-descript hallway in the middle of all the ornateness... but something caught my eye.
I decided to see what was out there.
I was not disappointed!
#obsessed
Afterwards, I walked over to the nearby Japanese Covered Bridge. I had seen it the previous night from afar, but this was the one attraction that I had read the most about when I was researching Hoi An. The inside of the bridge is guarded by a pair of dogs at one entrance and a pair of monkeys at the other entrance. There are two stories: One claims that many of Japan's emperors were born in the years of the dog and the monkey. Another story says that the construction of the bridge was started in the year of one and completed in the other. I never read any confirmation for either story, but the dog and the monkey were obviously very important to someone.
It was free to walk through the bridge, but I had to pay a ticket to see the small temple in the back. The Lonely Planet guide claims it is unimpressive and not worth seeing, but I simply had to see for myself! (I am glad I did. Yes, it was small, but interesting nonetheless.)
The entryway to the small temple in the back of the bridge.
Views from the bridge.
The Japanese Bridge was the fifth and final destination that I could access with my ticket, so I wandered through the streets a bit longer, admiring the charm of Old Town. I got a message from friends that I met in Sa Pa, and we made plans to meet up. I decided it made more sense to stay in Hoi An than to go to the homestay and back again. I watched the sunset and grabbed a drink to rest my feet a bit before meeting them for dinner. I enjoyed watching the city change from day to night.
The very clear end of Old Town.
You know I love my sunsets, especially when they involve water...
#letmetakeaselfie
Stunning.
Yes, it was fruity and full of sugar, but it seemed fitting.
I reunited with my Sa Pa friends, and we all enjoyed dinner at a little stand on the side of the river. We sat in the little plastic chairs, savoring the food and watching the beautiful lanterns. Then we walked along the riverfront a bit longer and grabbed a drink at a rooftop bar overlooking the lanterns. It was like seeing old friends, and it was such a happy ending to my wonderful day.
I tried one more local (delicous!) dish, cao lau.
It is currently the year of the rooster, so I am wondering if this changes with the new animal each year?
Sa Pa reunion!! #lovemypeople
After dinner I looked for a cab to take me home. Hung had met me earlier when I told him that I would be meeting friends. He took my bike home for me (I told you he was hospitable!) because he did not feel safe having me bike through the dark rice patty roads by myself at night. I did not fight him on this at all.
As I searched for a cab, motorbike, ANYTHING, I started to worry. I could not find anyone to take me home. It was kind of late (after 9:00 p.m... late for me! haha!), so I didn't want to call the homestay in case they were asleep. Just as panic started to set in, I remembered that there are no cars or motorbikes in Old Town. That means no taxis. DUH, Stefanie... I walked just outside of Old Town and found tons of cabs waiting for me. I found MaiLinh, one of the reputable companies in Central Vietnam, and he took me home. I had to laugh at myself... once I was safely back at my homestay.
In the morning, Hung's mom made me yet another delicious breakfast and more amazing coffee. Hung chuckled over my cab story and insisted I should have called him, but he was glad I made it home safely (I was too!).
After breakfast, I biked into town to have a fitting for my dresses. It was much busier on my bike ride that day, with many bike tours and buses on the busy road. I realized it's because I was out a little earlier. I was drenched in sweat by the time I got to my fitting, which was a little embarrassing. I tried on the dresses after drinking some cold water and toweling off some of the sweat. They did not quite fit, so the lady marked some things and told me to come back around 3:00 to pick them up.
I was flying out that night, but Hung let me have the room for the whole day at no extra charge. I thought this was very kind of him. I took a nap and then went down to the beach to meet up with my friend from Sa Pa (again!) for lunch. We went to An Bang beach, a 15-minute walk from my homestay and very popular in this area. The beach was packed, and I actually preferred the little private beach across from my homestay, but I enjoyed her company greatly so I was happy to spend my final afternoon there with her.
Ahhh... one more dose of happiness!
After lunch I biked to town one last time to pick up my dresses. They fit PERFECTLY. Initially I had my doubts, but I am so happy I bought these dresses. I wore the blue one for my birthday, and the black one will be a concert dress at school, which is why it is a bit more conservative.
My pretty new dresses :-)
I felt like a 31-year-old princess!
Hoi An is a place where many people end up extending their time, often rearranging other travel plans or skipping places altogether in order to spend more time here. I loved Hoi An and thoroughly enjoyed my time there (especially my homestay... seriously, you need to stay with Hung if you travel to this part of the world!). However, I did not feel drawn to extend my stay. I think a big part of it is that I felt like I needed to go to Ho Chi Minh City. You will see why in my next post...
Until next time, friends! Sending you lots of love from Myanmar. And to answer the questions, emails, and texts: Yes, I am safe here. (And happy too.)
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