Sawasdee Ka! (that's "hello" in Thai - pronounced "SA-WA-DEE-KA") What a fantastic culture! I am so sad for the people of Thailand, who recently lost their king. I am fortunate for the small amount of time I spent in Thailand so far, and it is quite apparent that the king was very beloved by his people. This post is a glimpse into my first experience in Bangkok last month.
How may people can you fit into a tuk tuk? #jocdoesbkk
Life got really overwhelming for awhile there, but I officially survived my grad class and have a nice long break until January, when I will tackle my final class in my masters program. I finally see light at the end of the tunnel, but in the meantime, it feels good to have room to breathe. The past few weekends were packed with cultural experiences, and I finally have time to update my blog. I am currently writing about Bangkok while sitting in my hotel room in Hong Kong. (I actually finished the post sitting poolside at our hotel in Bagan, a region of ancient temples in Myanmar, and finished editing the post while sitting on my couch back home in Yangon.) I am literally living my dream!
This didn't suck. (More about Bagan coming soon!)
Let me explain about the visa situation. Those of you who are planning to come visit me will travel here under a tourist visa, which is fairly common when traveling internationally. I am allowed to live and work in the lovely Union of Myanmar under a business visa. When I first arrived in the country, they gave me a single entry business visa. This allowed me to enter the country one ("single") time and to stay up to 70 days. There is also a multiple entry visa, which allows you to come and go as often as you please for as long as the visa is valid. Every person who has a business visa in Myanmar is required to leave the country every 70 days, no matter what type of entry you have. In order to renew our visas, we are required to travel to the Myanmar Embassy in Bangkok. The hope is to eventually get a one year multi-entry business visa, which is the maximum they will give.
I traveled to Bangkok with most of the Just Ok Club (#jocdoesbkk), which is the majority of our newbie family. We were so sad to do this trip without Paul, but he has to do his visa under a different timeline. We all decided to do our visa renewal over the long weekend that we had in mid-September so we could go to the embassy on Friday, and then stay in Bangkok for the weekend. Brenda used to live in Bangkok, so she was like our own fabulous personal tour guide. Spending our cultural Saturday in another city was more than just ok :-)
When we first booked the ticket, I wasn't sure that I would be ready to leave Yangon so soon, but it turns out that the trip was perfect timing for a getaway! We had a half day on Thursday, where Brenda and I both presented professional development sessions, and everyone else had a busy day at Myanmar Food Day. We were exhausted and excited for our adventure. Because we are required to do the visa renewal, our school pays for our flights, two nights in a hotel, the visa, and per diem for two days. Basically, we only had to pay for one night of the hotel, plus any other excursions we did on our own. And really, the fact that I have to leave the country every 70 days means that my school pays for me to travel to a different country every two months or so. Oh. Darn. (Sarcasm intended.)
Our lovely send-off, courtesy of monsoon season.
The morning of our travel, we woke up to a particularly monsoon-y day. Water was almost up to my knees as I waded to school. I taught in the morning and then presented a session to some of my colleagues in the afternoon. Afterwards, I rushed home to finish packing. I headed to the airport with a couple of the others, and it was an adventure just getting there! We went some crazy back way through a random market and an unpaved road, and suddenly we were outside the shiny new airport terminal. We checked in, devoured some Burger King french fries (our first truly Western food in nearly two months), and headed to our gate. Our flight was super short on Bangkok Airways, but we were given a meal and a beverage almost as soon as we were in the air. (Note: beer and wine are free on Bangkok Airways!) It was funny because half of our plane was filled with teachers from our school because a lot of people were doing visa runs and/or renewals over the long weekend too. When we landed, we went through customs pretty quickly and headed out to get a taxi. It was quite a queue process to get a cab because there were five of us, but we finally found a van to drive us. (Brenda had to a discussion with him in Thai, but she is quite persuasive!)
The queue for a taxi.
You get a ticket with a lane number where your cab will stop.
#jocdoesbkk
Two of our friends stayed at a different hotel than we did, but it was walking distance for them. Three of us stayed at The Landmark, which is in Nana, a very popular area of Bangkok. The hotel was bea-u-ti-ful! I hope we stay there again! The beds are unbelievably comfy, and the breakfast is to DIE for. After dropping our things, we walked around the bustling neighborhood and ate some delicious street food. We were exhausted from our week and our travels, so we settled into our comfy beds really early so we could get up early for our embassy run.
Our sweet pad for the weekend.
The lobby.
The king and queen of Thailand have photos EVERYWHERE in Bangkok. They are beloved by the people here.
I found this numbering system for the elevators very interesting. It took my brain awhile to get used to it!
Excuse me. We aren't just fancy. We are PREMIUM.
Our lights turn on with the room key! I found this to be one of the coolest things ever. (Although I have seen this in a few other hotel rooms since then, so maybe I'm just a novice.)
View from our room. I was so happy to be in a bustling city again :-)
View walking out to the street.
My first experience with Thai street food. A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!
BTS is the public transit system in Bangkok.
Waiting for our train.
"rabbit" is the name of the pass for BTS
Animated discussions of Pokemon Go during our commute (our friend is obsessed!).
The Embassy!
This building reminded us a lot of another building in downtown Yangon. I love this style, and that we can find it everywhere!
Close-up of the entrance to the very cool temple from the previous photo.
Street signs are so different everywhere I travel, and it's one of the things I notice most.
"Marriage for Alien" made us giggle! #idonteverwanttogrowup
Motorbikes drive on the sidewalks in Bangkok. It's a bit terrifying to me at times...
Yayyyyyyyyyy!!!
My old standby: Iced Coffee with cream. In Chicago, I LIVED for iced coffee because there was such a limited amount of time that we could actually drink it (#chiberia). Please note that this is the venti size in Thailand!
Lapsed Time: Less than 5 minutes. Happiness Level: Off the charts!
This is the view from the outside of the tuk tuk, pictured in the selife at the opening of this blog post. I was using my leg as a kind of seatbelt for Brighton so she wouldn't fall out. I'm sure it was quite a sight as we made our way through the streets... and definitely one of my favorite memories from our trip! #jocdoesbkk
When we got to the ferry terminal, we took the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat down the river to the Grand Palace. Thai people also take it as another means of public transit, but they are starting to promote it for tourists as well. This boat was incredibly cheap to take and offered some very cool views along the river. They were very informative along the way, so it was impossible to miss your stop.
The boat!
Ready for our journey down the river.
Plants growing in the water. There were also some HUGE fish that were jumping out of the water along one of the stops. I'm pretty sure they are related to the three-eyed fish in The Simpsons...
Closer view of the plants on the river.
I found these contrasts of East and West very interesting. Notice the smaller building in the foreground against the tall, sleek, modern building behind it. I found this to be part of the charm of Bangkok.
The boat was PACKED, but the guy in the blue shirt was almost like an MC for the train stops.
Thailand :-)
Interesting decor as we exited the boat.
Random art/fountain at the terminal where we exited for the Grand Palace.
Market near the terminal.
Place for animal relief.
"You are my favourite" is one of my catchphrases these days :-)
We exited the boats and made our way toward the Grand Palace. (Note: Those of you following international news have heard this place mentioned lately, as the recently decease and beloved King Bhumidol is being laid to rest there.)
My friend who used to live in Bangkok commented on how much this area has changed since she lived here (about nine years ago). There is artwork, trendy little shops, and a lot of tourism. We made our way to the area near the Grand Palace, and as we approached, it occurred to me that we may not be dressed appropriately. Bangkok was shockingly hotter and more humid than Yangon, and it is also much less conservative (in fact, I would say it is quite the opposite of conservative!). I was dressed in shorts and a tank top and was still dripping with sweat, as my Midwest body is still adjusting to this new climate. As we approached the Grand Palace, I remembered how we need to dress for temples in Myanmar (women need to cover knees and shoulders). I also remember visiting the Sistine Chapel in Rome, and my friend and I had to pull on pants and a shirt with sleeves in order to enter. There were many tour guides around the area offering help for various fees, so we asked one of them about our dress because I was not the only one dressed for hot weather. We were told that yes, we needed to cover up. We ventured over to a market nearby to find some clothing. I bought a long skirt that I actually really love and have worn a few times since, while others bought pants and other articles of clothing to cover up. We ended up buying bottoms and renting tops to cover our shoulders at the Grand Palace, but I am happy that I bought something local as well.
After making our purchases, we headed over to the Grand Palace. I reiterate, it was SO HOT. I bought some fresh fruit, and the juice was so refreshing. The Palace was packed with tourists, so we made our way to buy tickets and rent clothing. I am so happy that we were there early in the day because rented clothes were just returned to the racks without being washed. I feel sorry for the person who wore mine after me because I was DRENCHED in sweat! The funniest part of the rental process was these adorable little Korean girls in cute little matching outfits with crop tops and headbands. Although I have no idea what they were actually saying because I do not speak Korean, it was very apparent how they felt about the style of the rented shirts. It was so funny, but maybe you had to be there...
Outside the gates of the Grand Palace, with beautiful blue skies and big puffy clouds.
This watermelon was oh so refreshing on this hot day. Street carts sell fresh fruit EVERYWHERE in Bangkok. One of my favorite things about this city!
Family photo on the grounds of the Grand Palace, in our properly conservative attire #jocdoesbkk
The view, sans family.
Expectations.
Pathway to buy tickets
Lots of places I have seen in Southeast Asia (so far) have separate lines for countrymen and foreigners.
After a long pathway, we finally came to the Grand Palace. It was like a pagoda on performance enhancers. I don't think I have enough words to do it justice, so I'll try to let my pictures explain the beauty of this place:
First sight upon entering the Grand Palace.
These guardians were everywhere. They are SO COOL!
Obligatory family photo (missing Paul!) #jocdoesbkk
Trying to get some shade. So. Hot.
Changing of the guard as we were leaving the Grand Palace and entering other parts of the grounds.
We were not allowed to take photos in here, but the exhibit helped me understand how this king rose to the throne, and how the country has grown to love him over the course of seven decades.
Elephants are everywhere in Thailand!
After a couple of hours of wandering around the Grand Palace, feeling small, drinking in copious amounts of Eastern beauty in the heat of the day, we were exhausted, overwhelmed (in a very happy way), and STARVING. We returned our rented shirts and left the grounds to find food. There were markets and several restaurants along the way, so we stopped in a tiny little place that had interesting decorations and amazing street-style food. I gobbled up some delicious chicken rice basil and some strawberry juice and we headed back to the ferry so we could go collect our new visas. We were very fortunate and were granted six month multi-entry visas, which means we can come and go as we please, but we also have another visa trip sponsored by our school in six months! I'd say that was a win all the way around (just in time for Brenda's birthday, I might add!).
Funny decor at our lunch spot.
My favorite Thai dish (thus far): Chicken rice with basil. Yum. Yum.
More art work near the ferry terminal where we waited for the boat back to the embassy.
This was one of my happiest moments. I grew up listening to my mom talk about Thailand. She traveled here when my cousin was born, back in the late 1960s. One of the things I remember most from her stories of her travels was the hanging plants on the houses near the rivers. This scene made me smile and think of my mom. I can't wait for her to come visit and see this part of the world again :-)
There are murals of the king and queen EVERYWHERE. Thai people really love their king.
After collecting our passports and visas, we all needed to head back to the hotel for a shower and some downtime before going out to dinner. We met up with my friend's "Bangkok family." I totally understand why she is so close with them. They are absolutely lovely people.
We ate near a shopping area called Terminal 21. After dinner, we went to meet up with some other teachers from our school. They were at a Lebanese restaurant. I was full from dinner but felt the need to try Lebanese food (a first for me!). I had some hummus with meat (lamb, I think). It was delicious and I could have eaten more if I hadn't been so full. After dinner, we went to get a foot massage. It. Was. Life. Changing. It's a reflexology massage, so they spend a lot of time on your feet, using pressure and trigger points to alleviate stress in other parts of your body, but then they also massage your legs, arms, neck, shoulders, and then head. I am completely addicted to these now (and completely spoiled, for that matter... they are so cheap!). After our massages, we took the best tuk tuk in Thailand back to our hotel. The driver was awesome, pumped full of personality, and so funny, and his tuk tuk was completely decked out. He had flashing lights and a sound system that blasted hip hop music. We didn't need to go out that night; the party was on the tuk tuk! It was such an eventful day, and the beds and pillows in our hotel really rocked my world (again).
BTS was quite busy at this time of day. The way the queue for the train, even at rush hour, astounded me.
Dinner at Pala Pizza, outside Terminal 21 (a shopping place with a theme of travel).
This salad was AMAZING. A great balance of crispy, sweet, and savory. Yum!
Best pizza I've had in this part of the world!
The pizza sizes were not small, medium, large, etc. Our friends ordered a half meter of pizza. I have not seen this much pizza since Momo's in Gainesville in my college days! (#slicesasbigasyourhead)
Post-dinner foot massages. These things have changed my life. (Also, my orange skirt, pictured left, was my purchase from the market as my "cover up" at the Grand Palace. Love it!)
There are tons of massage places in the streets of Bangkok. I liked the decor in front of this one.
Best tuk tuk driver EVER. He decked out his tuk tuk in colorful flashing lights and put in a sound system, which blasted hip hop music. I wanted our trip to be longer than it was!
Loving this tuk tuk!
We <3 Thailand too!
The next day (Saturday), my friend took me for a run around the neighborhood. I love running in new places I visit. It kind of helps me bond and get to know a place on a different level. On this run, we went through a few of the streets, and then over this footbridge that lead us to a nearby park. The previous night, we were talking about a park in Bangkok that is famous for monitor lizards (similar to komodo dragons). My friend and I joked that her master plan was to lure me to this park with the mutant-sized lizards, and THAT would make me run faster... or else! Running has been a struggle for me because my body is having a hard time adjusting to the heat and humidity in this part of the world. I tend to get a bit frustrated when I run because it takes a different toll on my body, so it was nice being with my friend because her patience and reasoning helped me feel better about my running. (P.S. Her plan was foiled. The monitor lizards live in a different park in Bangkok! Ha!)
Beautiful little touch of nature in the city. Note: You can track my runs on social media with the hashtag #stefrunstheworld. I started this when I moved to Southeast Asia and I only use the hashtag the first time I run in a new place, but I've already racked up a few new locations!
After our run, showers, and another delicious breakfast, we headed to Chatuchak Market. It's the most famous market in Bangkok. I absolutely love wandering around local markets in places I visit as well. This market is HUGE. We stopped on our way in to buy a coconut from a street vendor. They sell these all over Bangkok and in a lot of other places that I have seen in my travels around Southeast Asia thus far. They hack open the coconut, and you can drink the juice from the inside. It is soooooooo refreshing. This was my first experience with a fresh coconut. I was hesitant because I have tried many different kinds of coconut water from stores, and I am not a fan at all. It was so hot and humid - bordering on steamy - that I decided to give the fresh coconut a try. I am glad I took the plunge. It was incredibly refreshing!
We continued our walk to the heart of the market. The Tourist Police were outside the entry points, warning tourists to carry bags on the front of our bodies for safety purposes (mostly pickpocketing). This is something we do not experience in Yangon because crimes like this are very rare - almost nonexistent - but it is not unfamiliar to me because of the places I have lived and traveled in the U.S. I swung my bookbag around to the front of my body and sipped on my fresh coconut juice as I wandered through the stalls, admiring the clothing, fabrics, accessories, souvenirs, and other merchandise. All the stalls were so different. It was actually a bit overwhelming because of the size, but I did walk away with a few new purchases. I definitely need to come back here on one of my future visits!
My first fresh coconut. So refreshing and oh, so, yummy!
Chatuchak Market was quite crowded!
Stalls were selling almost anything you can think of.
There are many entry points along the market.
There were outdoor stalls and food places too.
More street food! I think this was chicken and cashew... all I remember is that it was very, very delicious.
My friend and I left Chatuchak Market because we had appointments at a spa. We headed back to the BTS to get to our appointment. I had a 2-hour Thai massage and a 1-hour body scrub. Basically, I was determined to relax! This was my first Thai massage. I have heard about them and knew to expect it to hurt. I quickly found out that people don't exaggerate when they say this. My masseuse was this tiny little thing, but I am pretty sure she was actually a ninja in disguise. She twisted my limbs in all these different ways, used pressure points, and even walked on different parts of my body throughout the massage. It was oh, so painful at the time, but when I left, I noticed how much looser my body was. It's not something I will rush to do again soon (I want an actual soothing massage between now and then...), but it is definitely something I will try again at some point. After the massage, I had the body scrub. I had no idea what to expect. It was interesting. Not my favorite thing in the world, but not terrible either. My skin was pretty smooth afterward, and it was generally nice to be pampered.
The spa where I spent three glorious hours of my life.
After our afternoon of pampering, we did a few other errands and then my friend took us to her favorite spot for street food. She took care of the ordering, as I get quite overwhelmed by all of the choices. So far, there is nothing that I haven't liked. I never knew how much I would love street food! I'm so glad my friend is helping to introduce me to new things that I otherwise might be timid to try.
After we finished our dinner, we got ready to go out. We go all dressed up... and then we went to get another foot massage. Perfect Saturday night.
This struck me as very funny as I climbed the BTS stairs after the massage.
More street food! So delicious!
And of course... another reflexology foot massage.
My official excuse is that the Thai massage did not concentrate on my feet. Then again, I don't really think I need an official excuse. #sorrynotsorry
After our foot massages, we were quite tired and returned to the hotel for more sleep in our glorious beds. The next morning, we got up and did a little bit of shopping before heading to the airport. Yangon does not have many options when it comes to Western shopping, so a lot of people buy things when they travel to Bangkok or other cities around Southeast Asia. We ran a few errands but only ended up buying a few things, and then we had to check out of the hotel and head to the airport.
We finally got to take one of those hot pink taxis! (It wasn't as exciting as I wanted it to be. Make sure you check your meter and pay attention to tolls when you take taxis.)
This is the reason I have not and will not buy any Buddhas as souvenirs from my travels around this part of the world, despite having them available everywhere. I choose to support the local culture in other ways.
Bangkok Airport has many interesting statues!
Close-up of the statue/exhibit.
We got to the airport and through passport checks with enough time for one more foot massage!
My final Western indulgence before heading back to Yangon... I had a blizzard from Dairy Queen.
All in all, I had an amazing adventure on my first visa renewal run to Bangkok. I am in love with this city and could definitely see myself living here one day. Sometimes you just know these things when you visit a new place. Every city has its own vibe. In the meantime, I am happy to call Yangon my home (and plan to visit Bangkok many, many more times!). Much love from afar!
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