We 💕 Bagan
[Warning: Despite extensive revisions and editing, this post has a LOT of pictures. I also took many short little videos so that Mama Britton and I could remember some of the sights and sounds of Bagan. You can view the videos by clicking the links with different colored text, like this link that shows just how windy it was as we toured the ancient temples of Bagan.]
Bagan is a region in Central Myanmar that is filled with old temples. There are more than 2,000 Buddhist temples and monuments in this 104 square kilometer (a little over 60 square mile) area. At one time there were more than 4,000 temples, but time, weather, looting, and earthquakes have taken their toll on the area. It is considered an archeological site but has not been granted UNESCO World Heritage status due to the standards of renovation used in the area.
Bagan is famous for sunrise hot air balloon rides and sunset boat rides. Unfortunately we did not get to do either of those activities because we were traveling during rainy season, and neither of those options are available during the so-called "low season." Not to worry - the rain definitely did not dampen our adventure!
Mama Britton and I took a prop plane from Yangon to Nyaung-U, which is the newest part of Bagan. It is next to Old Bagan, which is the main artery of the area, and New Bagan is to the south of that. There are temples in New Bagan and Nyaung-U too, but most of them are located in Old Bagan. The temples mostly date between the 9th and the 13th centuries. Some are quite small and are only identified with numbers, while others are quite grand and iconic. The really big (famous) ones have names.
When we arrived at the airport, my mom was telling me how it reminded her of the good ol' days when she worked for the airlines (back in the 1960s and 1970s). When we landed and deplaned, we actually walked out to the runway area and traveled by bus a few meters to the small airport terminal. (Did I mention that our bus didn't have any doors? That made for an interesting ride!) There was no air con inside the terminal, nor was there a conveyor belt for luggage. Rather, there was a sign labeling the baggage collection point.
During her story and reminiscing, Mama Britton suddenly stopped short. Apparently in the good ol' days, they didn't push the baggage on carts by hand like they do in Bagan. It's kind of cool that a seasoned traveller like her can still be surprised!
Our prop plane
Obligatory plane window photo
Notice the planes visible through the bus window
They loaded these carts, then pushed them (by hand) to the terminal
Our bus didn't even have a door!
It's a bit hard to see in this picture, but this is how they push the baggage carts to the waiting area.
You have to pay a fee in order to visit Bagan, and you present your ticket anytime someone asks you for it (mostly at the big, famous temples). We paid our archaeological fee before leaving the airport. Then we took the 25-minute taxi ride to our beautiful hotel in Old Bagan. The sights along the roadside are unlike anyplace else I have ever visited.
We dropped our luggage at the hotel, but we were way too early to check in. I had previously stayed at this hotel and was intrigued by the Archaeological Museum next door. I was so excited that Mama Britton wanted to check it out too, since I did not get to visit on my previous trip.
We walked over to the museum, where we wandered around for quite some time. We learned about the history of Bagan and the significance of the hand gestures that are found on different Buddhas. The hall was very big and had no working air con in most of the rooms. No photographs were allowed indoors, but we did enjoy stopping for photos as we wandered around the picturesque outdoor area.
Very cool (and very big!) sign at the entrance
Once it was near our check-in time, we walked back to the hotel. The sights were different than you would see in your typical tourist spot, as we walked along dirt roads and passed horse-drawn carriages, temples, and small tents with food stands. Our hotel was simple and rustic but quite lovely. I found the staff to be very accommodating, too.
Not your typical walk back to a hotel!
Rainy season guarantees some lush landscaping in this country.
I love this tree.
Mama Britton and I were both quite tired from the traveling. It was a very short trip, but the previous day had been a bit stressful (considering I moved into a new apartment!), and we had to wake up pretty early to catch our flight. Traveling in Myanmar can be intense, and we decided to treat ourselves to an afternoon at the spa. Then we sat and drank wine while watching the sunset on the riverbank of our hotel before heading to dinner. It was a relaxing way to spend our first day in Bagan... After all, we WERE on vacation!
Entrance to the spa
Heading to the riverbank
Waiting for the colors to change
I love a good rainy season sunset 💙
After sunset, we took a taxi to New Bagan to eat dinner at the restaurant called Seven Sisters. I had previously read about this "fairy tale of a restaurant," and we were not disappointed. It is literally run by seven sisters, and they specialize in Burmese cuisine. They have some other Thai- and Chinese-influenced dishes as well, but we stuck with the local food. The restaurant has a lot of hand-carved teak wood furniture and decor. We sat outside because the temperature was pleasant that evening. The atmosphere was perfectly enchanting, and the food was quite tasty. We went to bed happy that evening - and excited for the adventures that lie ahead!
On our second day in Bagan, Mama Britton and I took an epic day trip to Mount Popa, where we climbed 777 steps to see a temple on top of a volcano. Our driver offered another day of sightseeing around Bagan, so we agreed to hire him to take us on a tour of the temples the next day. We woke up early again and met our driver for the next big adventure. He drove us a little ways, but then he got out and his friend took over. If this had been in the States, I would have been nervous and highly suspicious, but here it didn't seem all that strange. It is common for men to share one car and rotate who gets to make money that day.
I was excited for our adventure because we were going to see so many of the "big" temples and pagodas. When I previously traveled to Bagan, I only saw temples on my bicycle. It was a fun way to travel, but it limited my experiences to a certain radius. Temple-ing with Mama Britton was quite different, as we saw almost a dozen massive temples in one day! It finally felt like I had experienced (and therefor understand) Bagan more fully.
We started our day in the Nyaung U area, which is near the airport. Our first stop was at Shwezigon Zedi. It has an outer area with hallways that lead to the main temple area. The hallways were very empty, compared to some of the places we visited in Bagan. As you near the center of the temple, there are more people selling trinkets and There are many different textures, materials, and shapes inside the temple, which creates a certain atmosphere of beauty. The main stupa is quite large and made of gold. One of my favorite things about this temple is the little side room with all of the statues and figurines.
The breakfast at this hotel is tasty (except the coffee... good coffee can be hard to come by in these parts)
Standing guard
The metal work on this serpent reminds me of those little paper rings that we used to make when I was in elementary school. Anyone know what I'm talking about??
I think I know where that restaurant in LA got the idea for their iconic mascot!
Drums = life
It was very overcast, and it rained off and on all day. This did not dampen our spirits one bit. We were definitely grateful to have a car and a driver though - it allowed us to take small breaks from the rain.
We continued to the Central Plain to visit Thabeik Hmauk. This is one of the red brick temples and is currently covered in scaffolding. Many of the temples of Bagan were damaged during an earthquake in August 2016 (shortly after I moved to Myanmar). It is still a beautiful space, despite the damage. Like most of the temples we visited, Thabeik Hmauk has Buddhas inside (most of them have 4 - one facing each cardinal direction). Every Buddha is unique. Some are made of gold and others are painted. Someone once told me that the facial expressions often reflect the era that it was built. For example, if the face looks happy, it was probably built during a prosperous time in history. If the face looks worried, it may have been built during a time of conflict or turmoil.
I also love seeing the paintings on the walls inside temples. Even though they are chipping or fading away, it creates a certain atmosphere as you wander the narrow hallways.
I bought a sand painting of a sunset in Bagan as we left this temple. I also bought a sand painting of a gold and black peacock. Both paintings now hang on the walls in my apartment. There are many artists around Bagan who try to sell their work to tourists visiting temples. They usually wait near the temple and try to sell you things as you enter or leave (or both). They will often remember you and try to pressure you to buy something with your "lucky money." I liked this particular lady because she did not harass or pressure us, so I was able to look through the paintings and ask her questions. She was very pleasant and had a calm energy about her.
Don't mind the plastic hooks - you have to get creative to hang things on the concrete walls around here!
As we left Thabeik Hmauk, our driver took us to this small cluster of temples nearby. Mama Britton and I called it our little temple village, and we wondered if families lived nearby (or maybe even inside?) when they were built. Just check out how cool these views are!
None of the temples in our little temple village has a specific name or is particularly famous, but this was one of my favorite stops of the day.
This sign made me giggle. The structure nearby was slanted (probably damage from an earthquake).
I asked our driver if he could take us to my favorite restaurant in Bagan, Be Kind To Animals The Moon. He agreed, but Mama Britton and I explored the nearby (and VERY famous) temple called Ananda Phaya before taking our lunch break. The temple is white, and the Buddhas inside are larger than life. It has a very powerful effect as you walk past each one.
As we walked through the narrow hallways between entrances, I noticed an odd sound. It took me awhile to place it. Suddenly it dawned on me: Bats. There were dozens of bats (maybe more) swooping over our heads. My heart was racing, as I silently pleaded for them to stay high above our heads. I decided to keep this little discovery to myself, as I did not see the point in alarming my mom. I was mostly terrified when we were walking in the long narrow hallways between the Buddhas. The terror was totally worth it though, because the Buddhas here are absolutely stunning. That being said, I definitely breathed a huge sigh of relief when we left the bats behind!
Guardians stand at the entryways
To get an idea of scale, my head probably came to the base, behind the smaller seated Buddhas at his feet.
There were hundreds of these little cutouts in the walls. Each one had a small Buddha statue inside, all with different gestures and expressions.
Notice the slight difference in hand gestures among the four main Buddhas.
We stopped for lunch at Be Kind To Animals The Moon, which is my favorite restaurant in Bagan. My phone was not working that day, so I did not take any pictures with the iPad because it was a bit cumbersome to do it at the table. Besides, it was nice to take a break and enjoy our delicious vegetarian meal. The highlight for me was the Dragon Juice.
After lunch, we continued on our journey. We went back to the Central Plain to visit one of the temples that we had seen on the horizon earlier that day. Dhammayangyi is visible from almost all parts of Bagan and is an iconic part of the landscape (it's even in the painting that I bought). When we arrived, we met a lovely boy who took us on a tour of the temple. He explained that it was built by a crazy king, which is why there are things like sealed entrances and double images of Buddha. He also told us about the legend that the king amputated the arms of any workers who made mistakes when building the temple. The most extreme stories say that he cut off the hands of his architect and builder so that no one could replicate his temple! He says that this may only be a myth, but there are armholes in parts of the walls that may have been used for the amputations (the guidebooks support this story too). The temple also has three areas that are filled with brick where the original Buddhas stood (or maybe still stand?) tall. It is somewhat eerie and a very interesting place to explore!
At the end of the tour of Dhammayangyi, Mama Britton bought a lovely sand painting from our little guide as a way to thank him for the tour of his temple.
This temple sustained a lot of damage during the earthquake of 2016. When I visited Bagan the first time, we were not allowed near the entrance for safety reasons. I am happy that we were able to go inside this time.
A baby reclining Buddha
Temple dog!
Double Buddha statues - perhaps for the father and brother that he may have murdered
Views of Dhammayangyi from the distance
Next we went to nearby Sulamani, which is considered by many to be one of the "crowning jewels" of Bagan. It is quite beautiful and has five doorways. I liked all of the ornate details inside this temple.
Unfortunately we could not go upstairs, which was the case in most of the temples we visited. I bet they were quite beautiful in their day.
When Mama Britton was coming to Southeast Asia, she said she wanted to see Buddhas. I think it's safe to say that mission was accomplished!
I remember reading in the museum that this gesture is often used for teachers because they received energy with the upward facing palm, but they remain grounded with the downward facing palm. This is what I strive for in my teaching - energy yet grounding - though it is near impossible to achieve such a yin & yang balance (in my experience anyway). Despite the struggle, I love the idea.
Our driver led us to the top of one of the little structures outside of the temple. It was quite dark inside - we had to use a phone in order to light the narrow stairwell. There were no guardrails or beams, so I was super proud of Mama Britton for going up to the top! The views were definitely worth it.
Yep, that's my mommy. The one who is afraid of heights. Look at that drop off next to us! #bosslady
Loved these views!
We made our way back to Old Bagan. We visited Thatbyinnyu Phaya. It reminded me a bit of an old gothic-style church, except that this temple slightly predates that era... and it's on the other side of the planet. Oh, and it's a temple, not a church. But take a look at the pictures - especially the outside of the building - and see if you can understand where I am coming from.
According to my guidebook, this temple does not have a plaque, which suggests that it may have never been consecrated. It's amazing to me that so much work would go into a building, only to have it fall by the wayside.
The hallways of this temple are dotted with medium-sized Buddhas. There is also a lot of light, which also lets in quite a bit of fresh air compared to some of the other temples that we visited.
We walked behind some monks as we made our way back to the main road, where our driver was parked.
Next we traveled to an area called Myinkaba to visit Gubyaku Gyi. This temple has a lot of well-preserved paintings. There is also a pillar inside a cage that has inscriptions in four languages: Pyu, Mon, Old Burmese, and Pali. It is a UNESCO site and has great historical significance, as it helped scholars decipher the Pyu.
The infamous pillar.
Temple dog!
Next we visited the nearby Manuha Paya. This temple is a bit more modern-looking even though it was built nearly one thousand years ago. This pagoda houses four huge Buddhas (three seated and one reclining) that almost seem too big for the rooms where they reside. The sitting Buddhas look pretty grim from ground level, but apparently they look happy when you see them through the window of a nearby perch. Unfortunately, we did not get to climb the stairs so we did not see the illusion firsthand. The size of the Buddhas was impressive in and of itself, though!
Notice the scale - that is a fully grown man!
Our final stop that day was at the famous Shwesandaw. This was my second visit to the temple. It is a very popular sight during sunset. In fact, I think it looks like it is moving when it is full of people - kind of like a mound covered in ants. We went well before sunset so it was not crowded at all.
There were some very aggressive vendors outside. We ended up buying a couple of things from them on the way out, but they were not as pleasant as many of the other people that we made purchases from that day. I actually scolded one of them (I know, I know... but hear me out!) because she changed her price when I opened my wallet and she saw my money. I guess I have a good teacher voice because changed her price back to her original quote when I told her she was not being nice (while shaking my teacher finger at her).
Anyway, the Shwesandaw Paya has sweeping views and crazy steep stairs. I was once again amazed at my mother who faced her fear of heights so that she could enjoy these views. From here, the landscape is dotted with dozens of temples as far as the eye can see. (And for the record, the climb down is much more challenging than the climb up this temple!)
This garbage can made me giggle.
Shwesandaw
Those stairs tho...
Absolutely no fear #bosslady
You know my legs are longggggg, right?? Look at those steps!
It definitely felt like I was going to fall on the way down!
I've heard some say that they have gotten "templed-out" in Myanmar - particularly in Bagan. Mama Britton and I never felt that way. Almost a dozen temples later, we were still in awe. I was talking about Bagan with one of my 7th grade honor choir students one morning this week, and I loved the way she put it: "I never get tired in Bagan. Each temple has so much character, and it makes me wonder about the story behind it." Middle schoolers are sometimes absolutely brilliant.
After our day of exploring, we decided to skip the tourist-y experience of watching the sunset from the top of a pagoda. We settled for another beautiful night of cocktails on the riverfront of our hotel. In the distance, there is a pagoda on the top of a hill, and it almost looks like a beacon when it gets dark outside.
Perfection.
The pagoda, from afar
Another beautiful rainy season sunset.
After sunset, we decided to eat dinner at the hotel. We were too tired to leave, and the food here is tasty. We were surprised to find live entertainment! There was some traditional music followed by a puppet show. It was the so quirky and absolutely perfect.
"Look! They gave us a KNIFE!" Mama Britton was so excited to finally see some familiar cutlery at dinner that night :)
Stay tuned to find out if our next travels could top our temple-ing adventure...
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