Over the past few years, my wanderlust has really blossomed, and I've had some amazing travel experiences. I was fortunate enough to have two really fantastic travel partners when I lived in Chicago (I miss you, Leah and Maria!), and we had some truly amazing adventures together. I have yet to find a travel partner here, but that has never really slowed me down before. (Not to say I don't have friends here, but friends and travel partners are very different relationships.) I have done many small solo trips around the U.S. and even a couple here in Southeast Asia, but nothing more than a long weekend. As Spring Break approached, I found myself with a two-week holiday, and I decided it was finally time to take a big solo adventure. Yes, you read that correctly - my school gave us two whole weeks for Spring Break! I love being an international teacher. I probably should have been nervous about such a long solo trip. I had people ask, "Won't you get lonely? That's a long time to be by yourself!" or "Vietnam is such a small country. What will you do for two whole weeks?" - and my favorite - "But who will you talk to? I would want to share my experiences with someone else." I kept waiting for the nerves to hit because so many others had doubts for me, but I was eerily calm the entire time leading up to the trip. I think that's a sign that I was ready for this experience, and my fifteenth country did not disappoint!
Solo travel in Vietnam was so good for my soul.
There is no way I could fit all of my adventures into one post (and even if I did, absolutely no one would read something that long!), so this will be sort of a series. I will try to crank out one post per week. We will see if the internet here cooperates with my plans... That being said, these posts will probably not be short because I packed a lot into each day of my travels, so I'm breaking each post into sections so that it's easier to follow along with the day-by-day adventures (and it provides a good stopping point, for those of you who actually read this thing and need to take a break!).
Saturday: Travel Day
Our Spring Break actually started with a half day on Friday, as most of our breaks do around here. We had a ceremony at school to celebrate Thingyan, which is the New Year on the Myanmar Buddhist calendar. Despite the half day, I decided to schedule my flight on Saturday morning. I was glad I did this because it wasn't the usual stressful rush of packing and closing up the house and rushing to the airport as soon as dismissal happened. Rather, I shut down my classroom and went for a foot massage and mani-pedi with some friends from work. I spent the rest of the evening packing at a very leisurely pace, which was great because I was heading to mountains, beaches, and cities for 15 days, and it was not the easiest thing for this over-packer to do!
Saturday morning I went to the airport. It was an easy 2-hour flight, and I had pre-arranged a visa on arrival. I was a bit nervous because I know that those can be scams, but I did go through the Vietnamese Embassy website. Still, I was a bit anxious, and I was relieved to find that the process was actually super easy! I had my visa in less than 25 minutes, and I continued on my way. I had arranged for a car to pick me up because I read a lot about scams with taxi cabs as well, and my hotel provided that option for me. I was so excited that he had a sign with my name... I felt so important! I tried to take a picture, but he did not speak much English and my gestures did not translate, so I let it go. It was an easy drive into the city, and I could tell we were getting near the city center because it suddenly became very crowded. I could not believe the swell of people and motorbikes all around me! We crept along, and suddenly my door opened. The hotel had sent someone to meet me and lead me to the hotel, which was down a small side street. At that moment in the sea of people and motorbikes, I was so happy I had paid the money to arrange the pick up. (I found out later that I actually paid less than others who took taxis and/or Ubers to their hotels in the same district, so it really was a win for me!) Also, they don't really have traffic lights in Hanoi, and it is quite crowded. Somehow the cars, motorbikes, and pedestrians all navigate around each other. I wasn't quite there yet with my suitcase, so it was comforting to have someone help me navigate across the busy street to my quiet little hotel.
We made our way down to the hotel, the Skyline Hotel, which is in the heart of Old Quarter. I have to give a little shoutout for this hotel because I had such a wonderful experience: The location was perfect. It was in the middle of everything, yet removed from the hustle and bustle because it was down an alleyway. My room was so clean and comfortable, and the service was absolutely incredible. Every time I walked into this hotel, they greeted me by name and were incredibly warm and friendly. If you go to Hanoi, you have to stay here! I will definitely stay here again when I return to Hanoi in the future (I strongly feel that is not an "if" statement, but a matter of "when").
Anyway, at check in, the staff brought me a drink and went through a list of recommendations, along with a map of how to find them. In my time there, I managed to eat at about half of the places on the list, and every single one of them was wonderful. My first stop that evening was their top-recommended pho place. Now, I know that sometimes businesses have deals or partnerships and get kickbacks, so I had my doubts on how good this place actually was. Initially I passed it because it's such a tiny place - they even cook the noodles and prep the pho on the curbside! It was in the same alley as my hotel. I plopped down on a small plastic chair and pretended not to notice that people were staring at me. I was the only foreigner in there at the time. It must be a good sign if the locals go there, right? No one took my order; they simply placed a bowl of pho in front of me. I grabbed my chopsticks and dug in.
OH. MY. PHO.
It was the best food experience of my life. I devoured the entire thing really quickly. When I was almost finished, a random man told me in very broken English that I was really good with chopsticks, and he gave me a thumbs-up with a surprised-looking smile. My inner goddess did a back flip. (Some inner goddesses get excited for red rooms; mine gets excited for food and mastering cutlery. Haha!) Anyway, I slurped up the rest of my pho and decided to check out the night market, as it only runs on weekends. I had only booked the first few days in Hanoi and was unsure where my travels would take me for the rest of my time in Vietnam, so I didn't want to miss out on the night market.
Ready for adventure! #thisismy31
I love Emirates. Blankets and legroom... what else could a girl ask for?
I was so grateful to have someone lead me to the hotel down this little alley. It may have been a bit tricky with my suitcase and my exhaustion from traveling.
A peek into my first hotel room in Hanoi.
I was excited for a tub! Andddddd never actually had time used it...
Flowers and everything! How romantic. Hehe.
A view of the cute little hotel across the alley.
It may sound crazy, but the safe was the selling point for me when booking this hotel. Once I narrowed my options, it was the only hotel that had a picture of a safe on the booking website. Sold! I've heard and read stories about women traveling alone and being robbed, so I wanted a place to lock my passport and the bulk of my money so that if something bad were to happen, I wouldn't be hit too hard. Fortunately nothing terrible did happen, but I still take precautions as a solo woman traveling.
The hotel provided slippers. Unfortunately, I am not Vietnamese-sized. Notice my heels... #tallgirlproblems
My first bowl of pho, and it changed my life! For those who do not know, pho is a traditional Vietnamese dish with rice noodles, broth, beef, and green onion. I also added some chili sauce for a little kick.
The place was called Pho Suong - #24 Trung Yen Lane (for future reference). It's so tiny that they prepare the food on the curbside! Notice that the food station is outside the main door. Another night later in the trip, I ate in the alleyway outside the restaurant because there were no more seats. I absolutely love the street food experience in this part of the world.
I learned that the city of Hanoi shuts down certain streets to be pedestrian-only on weekends, and I was so glad this was the case. Crossing the road is intense in the big cities of Vietnam, so having some streets shut down made it much easier to navigate. I wandered through the night market, which was quite different from the night markets in Bangkok and Yangon. Here, the tents and tables were set up down the middle of the pedestrian-only street, but many businesses were still open along the way. They had all sorts of souvenirs, food, and other items for sale. I bought a small beaded bracelet and wandered down to the lake. It was beautiful, and it struck me that Hanoi feels very much like a city in Southeast Asia, but it has its own identity. I was quickly falling in love with its charm and its vibe. However, it was very crowded and I started to feel overwhelmed, so I decided that was enough adventure for my first night.
Notice the way you cross the street here. No street lights. Cars, people, and motorbikes simply navigate around each other. The lights across the street is where the pedestrian-only section starts.
So much activity on these small streets! But I never felt unsafe, unlike traffic in Yangon.
Hanoi's night market had tents and tables down the middle of the street. These poles are meant to keep motorbikes out of the road.
Lots of people crowded here to get sushi and other snacks. I was stuffed with pho, so I didn't buy anything.
Motorbikes often zipped by, even though it was a "no engine" zone.
Many stores along the way were still open as well.
Some stores did close during the night market, so other vendors set up small racks of goods on the sidewalks.
The busy traffic circle near Hoan Kiem Lake, on the southern part of Old Quarter. It was shut down to traffic but still very busy.
I thought this old tree was very cool (even better in person!), and you can also see how crowded it was.
I came here on several nights of my trip, and there was always a street performer. On this night, it was a magician, and he had some pretty cool hip hop music blasting while he did tricks.
One of my favorite views on the lake - I think it was better at night than it was in the daytime.
Sunday: First full day in Ha Noi
I woke up early on Sunday morning and went for a run around Hoan Kiem Lake. There were a lot of people practicing tai chi and there were several other runners and walkers too. I saw a lot of old vs. new, and the whole area was quite picturesque and peaceful. I decided to keep the run short even though I felt that I still had energy to continue. I was unsure of how much walking I would do that day and didn't want to overdo it on my first day of vacation. Later that night, I was glad I made the decision to keep the run short because it ended up being a rather intense day!
My run was so peaceful. Also, notice how clean it is here!
This unfiltered version of the picture perfectly captures the essence of my run here: The flowers, the lake, the old vs. new, and the local man practicing tai chi. I loved every single step of this run. #stefrunstheworld
There was even a race!
I returned to the hotel and ate a delicious breakfast. (I loved the breakfast at this hotel!) I decided to go to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex that day because it would be closed on Monday, and I felt that I needed to see it. I had personal reasons: My mother graduated from high school in the mid-1960s, and so many of her male classmates (including a family member) fought in the Vietnam War. I grew up hearing many more personal stories about that time period than most people my age, as my mother had me a little bit later in life and is therefore part of a different generation than the parents of most of my peers. Initially I was unsure if I would visit the Complex, but I wanted to see some things about the War from their perspective. The observations I make in this post are not meant to be critical or judgmental; rather I will try to explain things as I experienced them.
The line for the mausoleum was super long when I arrived. I was not sure if I would get in because they shut down the entrance at a certain time, but I think that 10:30 cutoff is when they close the line, rather than the actual building. When the cab driver dropped me, I had to round a corner, cross a street, round another corner, and then about two or three streets later, I found the end of the line. Although it was long, the line moved very efficiently. They even had workers making sure that people did not cut in line when people were crossing the streets. Ironically, it was almost like an amusement park line. There were fans in covered areas and rails to lean on.
You see, Ho Chi Minh's body has been embalmed and is on display, so many Vietnamese people travel here to pay homage. There were not many foreigners in line, which explains why so many people were taking "sneak" pictures of me. I started posing for them at a certain point, which almost always seemed to embarrass the person taking the photo.
At a certain point, I had to check my purse. I could only take my money, phone, and camera. I do not have a proper camera, but they would have made me check it at a later point anyway. I remembered reading that you cannot take pictures, nor can you walk in with your hands in your pockets, so it should not have surprised me that I got scolded for having my arms crossed as I made my way through the line. That was very intimidating, but I suppose soldiers in any country are intimidating (for the most part). We were ordered to remain close to one another, which explains why the line moved so efficiently. When we got to the actual building, everything fell silent. The room where his body is on display is very cold (which I guess makes sense), and there was a very intense energy in the room. All I could hear was footsteps as we moved in unison around the body, and for me it was a very staggering feeling to see the man whose face I had seen so many times as I read about him over the years.
After that, I had to leave the grounds because everything closed down until 2 p.m. This turned out to be fairly common for museums and other government buildings throughout Vietnam. I ate a mediocre lunch at a cafe near the grounds because I did not have the energy to cross the street with all that traffic. While I ate, I looked at my guidebook to see what I could explore close by because I wanted to return to the museum after 2:00.
Quaint little view from my breakfast table each morning. I loved how much light was in this little space.
Most days I ate a very Western breakfast because I wanted to spend my lunches and dinners eating street food. For me it's all about balance.
The line for the mausoleum was so long!
Locals were selling food and beverages to people waiting in the long line.
There were speakers along the way that I assume were giving either instructions or propaganda while we waited, but it was all in Vietnamese so I actually have no idea what they were saying.
The line broke when there were street crossings, and they told us when to cross to avoid traffic (and to avoid standing in the streets to hold up traffic). This is where they had monitors to keep people from cutting in line.
We crossed several streets and turned two corners...
...and finally made it to the entrance.
The covered part of the line was a nice break from the heat.
The line continued to snake around after this, but it's where I had to check my bag. There were signs that said "NO PHONES" (one of the few things written in English). I followed that rule even though many others did not. Considering I couldn't cross my arms or put hands in pockets, I did not want to cause any problems!
This was probably one of my least-favorite (and most expensive!) meals of the trip. I think it's funny because it's one of the few times I ate at a proper restaurant. That being said, it wasn't terrible, but the street food in Vietnam is SO GOOD that the restaurant pales in comparison.
After lunch I decided to walk to the Temple of Literature. Along the way I saw a couple of other sites as well, but what I didn't see was pedestrians. Not many people here travel by foot. I eventually found the Temple of Literature, which is where the first university in Vietnam was built in 1076. I wasn't planning to go into the actual temple area, but I liked the looks of the grounds from the outside walls. The area is still used for graduations, and there were a couple of them going on while I was there that day. Despite being crowded, the grounds were peaceful. There was really good energy in the place as I wandered around. I wanted to go back and spend more time in certain places, but the flow was one-way and I couldn't turn back. Lesson learned.
Outside the Complex, there were many flower shops selling things that you could buy and leave for Ho Chi Minh.
I passed the Statue of Stalin as I walked around the neighborhood (things I don't often see in other travels).
I also passed the Flag Tower of Hanoi. I tried to go in, but as it was a museum, it was closed too. I loved this view though. Very symbolic of Hanoi.
Outside the walls of the Temple of Literature.
The entrance.
This is where you enter the grounds.
Everything outside was pretty and peaceful, so I decided to buy a ticket to explore the rest of the area. It was only 30.000 VND, which is a little more than $1 USD.
My ticket.
Many of these people were headed to the graduation ceremonies inside the grounds.
I liked the little entryways throughout the grounds.
Pond inside the grounds.
The architecture is quite different from temples in Myanmar and Thailand. I liked it.
The temple had statues and plaques honoring scholars of Vietnam. This area was for doctors.
Turtles are of great importance in Vietnam. You see them in almost every temple and around many other places too. I think they are a symbolism of wisdom, or something like that. Each of these turtle statues had names of doctors. Many of them were old and a lot of the text had worn off.
Initially I thought this was Chinese text, but I later learned that Vietnamese used be a character text as well. Modern letters that we see now were developed later in its history. I am not sure which language this is.
It was graduation day!
View across the pond. Very iconic.
Interesting statue I passed along the grounds.
Notice the dragons on the top of this part of the temple. Dragons are also a very big part of Vietnamese culture. Many believe that dragons have protected Vietnam throughout the centuries.
There are also lanterns everywhere. Here, you can see another the difference in the temples. The insides are very ornate with lots of gold, but with much more carvings than I have seen in other temples.
The first statue I saw was occupied by a photo shoot with a Western family. I decided to go to the other entrance. I noticed locals stopping to rub the crane's body and the turtle's head. I wasn't entirely sure why they did that, but I figured it wouldn't hurt, so I did it as I passed by too. Couldn't hurt, right?
I know the crane and the turtle are both very important, but I never figured out exactly why. I guess I'll have to come back to Vietnam so I can learn more! (Notice the shiny parts of the statues where they have been rubbed by many visitors over the years.)
Many entryways throughout the country looked like this. Notice the high step. I read that many old structures were built like this in Vietnam in order to keep the bad spirits out.
Many people burn incense and appear to pray at temples. I did not participate to this because I do not understand the tradition, but I respect it.
This is where I usually see Buddhas. People who say, "Once you've seen one temple, you've seen them all," are so very wrong.
Another statue and offering table.
More characters and ornate drawings. These were mostly fish and dragons.
So intricate and ornate.
Looking up.
View into the center of the grounds.
The guardians in each country look different, too.
THIS. I sat here for a very long time. I don't know what it was, but something about this place felt very good to me. I wish I could have ended my day here, but it was a nice reprieve from the intensity of the Complex.
After feeling rejuvenated and re-centered, I felt ready to go back to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex. It was only about a mile away, but I had already walked quite a bit that day, so I decided to cab back. Of course there were no taxicabs around, but there were tons of motorbike taxis. I was only slightly terrified and very grateful that my guy took it slow.
Motorbike taxi selfie (when we were stopped of course, because I had a death drip when he was actually driving). I gave him a tip for the photo because... When in Rome!
I wandered around the grounds of the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex a bit before the museum opened. Inside the museum, there was a statue of Ho Chi Minh, where families lined up to take pictures. I continued inside because I didn't feel that it was my place to smile and take a selfie here. I skipped the first floor of the museum with intentions to return later because it was about more contemporary leaders. Again, I later figured out that this was a one-way flow (it seemed to be a trend!), so I missed out on that exhibit. I did wander through the other floors. There were many displays about the revolutions and a lot of pride for their country, which makes complete sense. I overheard a Westerner muttering criticism about signs of "Independence or Death!" but it reminded me of our own, "Give me liberty or give me death!" It began to occur to me that a revolution is a revolution; we all have our reasons for what we do, and a lot of that comes from a deep love for our country and our beliefs about what is best for our country. I actually learned a lot about their history with the French presence and the revolt that happened against the occupation. I was doing fine and keeping an open mind until I turned a corner and saw a replica of the "defeat of Americans 1972." Looking at U.S. boots, helmets, and uniforms was all too personal for me. I felt a lump in my throat and suddenly had chills. I had to get out. I found the exit and decided that was enough for one day. As I left, I stumbled upon a pagoda and thought it might be a nice little reprieve. I went inside but was quickly shooed away. I decided it was definitely time to leave.
As I was leaving, I was physically and emotionally drained. It was hot, and I can't really describe how I was feeling. It felt like I was in a thick cloud. I hailed a taxi and asked him to run the meter, and then sort of withdrew into my own thoughts. This is where I learned a very important lesson about taxis in Vietnam. I had read about scams and felt prepared because everything I read told me to ask for the meter. What they don't tell you is to pay attention to how much the meter is. This guy charged me 150.000 VND per kilometer. To give you some perspective, it cost me 70.000 VND to get from my hotel to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex that morning. This guy charged me 885.000 VND. Looking back on it now, there are so many things I would have done differently. However, in the moment, I was hot, upset, physically and emotionally exhausted, and sitting in a small contained space on a one-way street with a strange man yelling at me to give him money. Taxis in Myanmar are not regulated, and I panicked. I threw money at him and scrambled out of the cab. I walked in a daze back to the hotel. When they asked me what was wrong, I burst into tears and told them what had happened. They were very kind about it and tried to help, telling me that I could call the cops if I took a photo of his medallion. I did that every time I took cabs in the States, but I've been living in a country without these types of regulations for nine months now, and I'm out of practice. There was literally nothing I could do except go upstairs, shower, and have a good cry about it. After I napped, I felt much better. I figured it could have been much worse. I wasn't physically harmed, he only took a little bit of my money, and now I had learned a very hard lesson. And really, if that guy needed the $38 USD that badly, then he was obviously more hard-up than I am. I decided not to let that one experience define or ruin my trip, and honestly, the longer I spent in Vietnam, the more I heard stories about scams in cabs. In other words, I wasn't alone.
The entryway to the Complex is blocked to motorbike traffic, which is uncommon in Vietnam (there are motorbikes EVERYWHERE!)
Recycling! I was so excited. You do not see this in Myanmar.
This is the Mausoleum, where I visited the body of Ho Chi Minh in the morning.
These signs flanked the left and right of the Mausoleum...
...I overheard a tour guide telling a group of travelers that it said something about "but forever in our hearts." I didn't hear the whole thing because apparently I'm terrible at eavesdropping.
Many Vietnamese travel here as a sort of pilgrimage to "Uncle Ho."
Entrance to the Presidential Palace. I only had time (and energy) for this or the museum, and I decided on the museum.
Ho Chi Minh Museum. There are several throughout Vietnam, but this is the one in Hanoi.
The grounds of the Complex were actually quite pretty, though the energy was quite intense.
There were many different symbols on these flags. I recognized many of them but could not name all of them for you. However, you can see the sense of pride that the museum holds. (I did not take any pictures inside.)
The One Pillar Pagoda.
There were lanterns and intricate carvings like the other temple I had seen that day, but I was quickly shooed away from this place. Apparently I was not welcome here, even though there were many other people taking pictures. This place did not have the same good energy that I felt at the Temple of Literature.
After pulling myself together, I set out on my evening adventure. I decided to go see the water puppet show that I had read so much about. I walked down to the lake and bought tickets. I settled into my seat just as the performance started. I read that water puppet shows were developed as entertainment for rural farmers many decades (or possible centuries?) ago. The puppets were not on strings, but on sticks attached to their feet. I suppose that makes sense because they are moving through water. The show had absolutely no English, but I could understand it very well. There were little vignettes with short stories about dragons, fishermen, cranes, and village life. The music was played live on traditional instruments and was very beautiful. Some parts of the stories were downright hysterical. It was exactly what I needed that night.
Time for a puppet show at the Thang Long Municipal Water Puppet Theatre!
That's a big puppet! Orrrrrrr maybe a statue in the puppet venue...
My ticket was 100.000 VND, which is less than $5 USD. Totally worth it!
The stage had this temple-y looking structure and some curtains where the puppets came in and out. The floor of the stage was actually water!
The traditional instruments were beautiful. I loved the music. There were also actors that came out later to do the speaking parts (all in Vietnamese).
Time for the show!
This was my FAVORITE part - Dragons! They were on fire and everything! Unfortunately, I am not a photographer so this photo is complete crap, but trust me. It was great.
Some fire dancing puppets.
These cranes were hysterical. They got into a fight. I don't remember who won because I was too busy giggling.
Non-fire dancing puppets.
After dinner I decided to find another Vietnamese traditional food place that the hotel recommended. There was a bun cha place close to the water puppet theatre, so I wandered near the lake (it was so pretty at night!) and then went to dinner. Most of the seating was upstairs. There was space for me in the second floor seating area, and I had to remove my shoes before entering the dining area. The seats were the aisles where you walk, and then there was a sunken area for your legs and feet. Seating is kind of family-style with big long tables, so I expected to converse with some others. I always read and hear about people meeting others when they are traveling, but the people at the restaurant at that time were very much into their own conversations, so I just sat quietly while I drank my Ha Noi Bia (Hanoi beer) and ate my bun cha. For some reason I thought bun cha was something else, but it was this broth thing with noodles, sausage, some leafy veggies, sprouts, and a few other components. They bring you all of the things, and then you kind of have to build it yourself. It's also served with spring rolls, which I dunked in the broth. The bun cha was a bit more sour than I usually like, so it's not my favorite Vietnamese traditional dish from the trip, but it was quite tasty!
The views around the lake are beautiful at night :-)
This is by far my favorite nighttime view - the bridge to the temple in the middle of the lake is quite stunning in the lights.
Dinnertime!
You have to remove your shoes to enter the dining area, so it felt a little like you are in someone's home.
The tables were very big and family-style, but the others were very into their own conversations.
It was funny to be served from above.
These are all of the components for bun cha. So many things!
Ta da! I think I did it! The flavors were a bit sour, but not in a bad way. The dish was quite tasty! Also, I had read about beer that is sold in the streets in Hanoi. The beer is brewed daily because it has no preservatives. I kept ordering bia places, but never actually found said street beer. Next time!
After dinner I wandered home. When I got to the alley where my hotel was, a woman asked if I wanted to come into the spa for a foot massage (it's common practice around here for spas to have people outside to try to entice customers). I decided that this sounded like a great idea after such an intense day. It was exactly what I needed to unwind before bed.
Definitely the best way I could have ended an intense day.
Monday: Day 2 in Ha Noi
Monday was a much more mellow day. That morning I decided that I needed some R&R after the physically and emotionally exhausting day before. After all, I was on vacation! The hotel had helped me arrange an excursion for that night and the following days (more on that in my next post!), so they let me check out at 3 p.m. I was floored when they told me that! My tummy wasn't feeling so great that morning - not bad, but not great. I usually eat a rather healthy diet, so I think it was just a reaction to so many rich foods in such a short time. I had some fruit and yogurt while I researched yoga studios. I needed some zen for sure! I spent the morning and early afternoon in the yoga class and then at the vegetarian cafe attached to it. Such good vibes here! My body was also happy after all of the healthy eating that morning, so I was in a much better place as I headed back to the hotel that afternoon.
My body needed a break from all the rich food I had the previous two days. But can I just give a quick shout out to the coffee in Vietnam?? LOVE.
The yoga place was easy to miss, as it was in the back of this food cafeteria place.
Once I saw this sign, I was reassured that I was in the right place.
I climbed several sets of stairs...
...and passed this cute yoga cat before enjoying my class. There was really good energy in this studio.
Afterwards, I enjoyed some mint tea and some happy flowers.
Lots of sunshine and views of daily life outside of the studio and cafe.
It suddenly occurred to me as I chomped on my veggies that I was having my second meal in two days sans shoes. No complaints here :-)
After check out, I decided to spend a leisurely afternoon planning the next part of my adventures in Vietnam. I was booked on an excursion for the following couple of days and wanted to save my energy for the trekking in my near future, so I went to a rooftop bar near my hotel. I happily sipped on iced coffee in the afternoon heat as I enjoyed beautiful views on top of Hanoi and read more about the country. I settled on my next destination and booked a flight and hotel for the weekend, as I knew I would not have much access to internet in the coming days. It was quite an exciting way to travel, if you ask me! I really enjoyed figuring things out as I went along.
Same namesake as my hotel, but not related.
Iced coffee and city views while I journaled about my adventures on the previous day and researched/planned my future travels.
I imagine that this space is quite charming at night, when the city lights are twinkling and these strings of lights are lit.
The bridge is hard to see in this picture, but in the distance is Long Bien Bridge. I later learned that "long" is Vietnamese for "dragon." It was originally designed by Eiffel (as in the tower guy) - I forgot about the French influence and presence here! The bridge was bombed by Americans during the War but it was quickly rebuilt each time. When they did, they rebuilt for function, so only parts of the bridge still look dragon-like. I traveled on this bridge when I took the overnight train to my next destination.
I like the nature vs. man from this view.
It really was a lovely place to spend an afternoon.
View of the lake - one of my favorite places in Old Quarter.
The city seemed so quiet from up there.
I went and got a massage in the late afternoon. Afterwards I still had some time to kill, so I decided to try to find the pho place that another friend raved about. It turned out that the place was a tiny hole-in-the-wall (my favorite type of place!) near the lake. I went in and sat at a table next to the "kitchen." It was incredible - this little girl who lived on a macaroni-and-cheese-only diet for the majority of her growing-up years has fallen in love with street food. The guy had a cigarette in one hand while he prepped my noodles, but he put it down when he prepped my meat. How considerate of him! Hehe. I watched as he took a pile of raw beef, chopped it up and smushed it with the side of the cleaver blade, and threw it on top of the pho. As he set the bowl in front of me, I thought, "Well, this is it! This is when I finally get sick!" I took a bite and decided it would definitely be worth it. The pho was delicious, though I have to admit that my pho from the first night was still my favorite. I finished my delicious dinner and made my way back to the hotel.
I spent two amazing hours here! They have this weird fish package you could buy - where you stick your feet in water and let them eat your dead skin. I wanted to try this but decided it wouldn't be a good idea right before two days of trekking that lay in my future, juuuuuust in case something went wrong with said fish. I will go back one day and try it out!
Again, I walked by the place because it was so small.
My seat, right next to the "kitchen" - hey it was indoors this time!
Sites on my walk home.
I stopped for ice cream. I couldn't help myself.
I was scheduled to be picked up for my excursion that evening. I got back to my hotel a little early with plans to simply read in the lobby until it was time to go. I was pleasantly surprised when they offered me access to a shower, along with some soap and shampoo (I had packed those in my suitcase that I stored with them for the duration of my excursion). I happily accepted the offer for the shower. The day had been quite hot and humid, and felt a little gross. In addition, I honestly did not know when my next opportunity to shower would be - it could be as many as two days from now! I suddenly started to get knots in my stomach as I prepared to set out on my next adventure. Finally, some nerves hit me!
Where in the world did I travel next?? Guess you'll have to stay tuned to find out...
Until next time, friends!
