Sunday, December 11, 2016

'Tis the Season... Concert Season, that is!

What does four and a half months of living in a developing country give you? Salmonella poisoning. That's what! (SATC reference, anyone??) After a very agonizing week, I am happy to say that I am on meds and feel almost like a real person again. I don't want this in any way to sound complain-y or anything. Actually, after surviving two of my three concerts while dealing with salmonella poisoning, I think it's safe to say that I can do anything! And I do mean anything. EVER.

I have spent a great deal of my posts covering the "wanderlust" part of my blog, but today I am going to focus on the "do re mi" part. I think the last time (and only time!) I posted about my adventures in teaching music was when I was settling in, just before the school year began. I decided that it's time. ESPECIALLY after the round of concerts that I just had! I also figured it would be nice to share what it's like to spend the holidays abroad, so there is some Thanksgiving and Christmas sprinkled into this post as well.

During our orientation, we learned about culture shock. We learned that there are a few different stages, beginning with the "appreciation phase," which I like to compare to the "honeymoon phase" of relationships. Just like when you are falling in love with someone: Everything is great. You just can't get enough. Nothing is ever wrong. You simply couldn't be happier. And then after awhile, those cute little quirks and things you found charming start to get on your nerves, and you aren't feeling so appreciative anymore. I don't remember the name of that phase, but it started to hit in late October and really got into it in early November. I was SO SICK of rainy season. Everyone told me it would start to lighten up in early October and taper off by the middle of the month, "at the latest," they all said. When it rained (hard) everyday and flooded in the first week of November, I was completely fed up. By mid-November, I was starting to get homesick. I really missed fall. It is my favorite season, and seeing all of the social media posts of my friends wearing sweaters and scarves, picking apples and pumpkins, and all of the different colors of leaves... It got to me for sure! Rather than wallow in self-pity, I went to the Japanese store and bought a ridiculous little display for my desk at home. When I found a small, live pumpkin at Marketplace a few days later, I almost cried. I was so happy. I had fall at home AND at school!

By the end of November, the rain had stopped and my spirits started to lift. I went running one morning and suddenly realized that we were in the elusive Cool Season here in Myanmar. The days are still hot but much less humid, and the mornings are simply delicious. The temperatures are cool and not humid at all, so my sunrise runs are even more enjoyable these days. I have also been Skyping and chatting a lot with friends and family, so my feelings of loneliness were replaced with happiness and feeling lucky that I am loved by so many people afar.

When Thanksgiving rolled around, I was able to Skype with my mom, sister, brother-in-law, and niece, who were together for the holiday. I also talked to my brother just before going to bed, so I fell asleep happy. That weekend, our school had a potluck. Our social committee was able to buy us turkey (which is impressive for this part of the world!), and everyone signed up for dishes to bring. This was only my second Thanksgiving away from family in my thirty years of life. I was worried. I thought it would be hard. But this silly little potluck ended up being exactly what I needed. Everyone put a lot of heart, effort, time, and money into the event. One woman spent like $40 on pecans just so that she could make a pecan pie like home. And she wasn't in the minority. Everyone chipped in and brought dishes that were very hearty, including me! 

Yes, that's right everyone. I COOKED. 

I'll just let that sink in a little.

Our secondary principal and his wife hosted Thanksgiving dinner. We had it on the Saturday of Thanksgiving weekend, even though we had Thursday off for a national holiday (celebrating Myanmar's independence from Britain). The reason we did not have our celebration on Thursday is because we watched part of the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade and a football game, and none of those things had happened yet on Thanksgiving because we are a half a day ahead of the States. (That is still weird for me.)

Our principal's house is referred to as The White House because it's big, it's white, and the boss lives there. Haha! They set up tables in the yard and decorated with beautiful lights. They also set up a projector and screen for the parade and football viewings. It was at this dinner that I realized that my homesickness and borderline bitterness was lifting. Watching everyone talk excitedly over all this delicious home-cooked food was very heartwarming. And then when I realized that it was late November and I was sitting outside in sandals, I was even happier. Because as much as I missed fall, I will NOT miss the Midwest winter! 



I made mac & cheese, and not from a powder! It seemed to be a hit at the party.

The best part about a crock pot is this is how easy the cooking process actually is. I read in bed while the crock pot melted my ingredients into cheesy melty goodness. (This was especially good for me, as it was the start of my two weeks of being sick.)

Dinner is served! I was amazed at all of the delicious dishes. A lot of love went into this meal.

The dessert table

One of my roommates, showing just how happy we were about all of this food!

That's turkey and cranberry sauce in the background, and homemade bread in the foreground. These are all rare findings in Myanmar.

A plate full of Thanksgiving happiness!

Candid shot of the people I shared Thanksgiving dinner with

The viewing of the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade - we ended up watching last year's parade because we had internet issues, which is typical for us.

I don't remember the game that was shown - I was mad at New Orleans because my Fantasy Team tanked this week, and I didn't care to watch how it happened. Haha!


As mentioned in one of the captions above, this was the weekend that I really started feeling bad. Which was perfect timing, considering it was the week that concert season was starting! (That was sarcasm, in case you didn't pick up on it...) 

When I accepted this job, I knew that I would be doing concerts again. I was equally excited and nervous about this. When I taught in New York City, my shows were the heart and soul of what I did at the school. I put everything into them, and it was by far my favorite part of my job. When I moved to Chicago, things were different on the performance front. There were assemblies, but it was very different. The classroom teachers did things with their students, and at one time I was scolded by admin for taking too much program time with my three songs. By the end of my time there, I ended up only doing one short song with each of my groups. I would record the rest of the pieces and show them to my classes during the school day, but that's not the same thing as putting on a concert. I was very honest with my new bosses that this had been the case, but made it clear that I looked forward to doing performances again.

In both of my previous positions, my after school ensembles were the ones that were showcased at performances every winter and spring. When I got here and realized that all students in all grade levels were to perform under my guidance, it felt like rock suddenly sunk in my stomach. I started to panic. Actually, "panicked" is putting it very lightly. I was completely freaked out. It is very different working with a group who wants to perform, versus having it as a requirement. The other terrifying news was that I teach six different grade levels, which meant I would be responsible for three different concerts. 

Three concerts. Over the course of eight days.

As any mature adult would do, I put off dealing with it until I absolutely had to. Then, once October hit and I realized how rapidly the concerts were approaching, I really started to worry. I reached out to the former music teacher and talked to her about what had been done in the past. I also asked my admin for some guidance as to what their expectations were for the performances. And finally, I spent a lot of time in the classroom of the secondary music teacher, trying to figure out what the heck to do with all of those kiddos. 

Initially I wanted to showcase things we had been learning in class. The problem is that I was teaching my units as usual, which have absolutely no holiday theme. That was a requirement, so after many hours of soul searching, I settled on what to do. 

My 6th graders would continue as planned. I have been doing West African drumming with them, and they absolutely LOVE it. (So do I! I'm planning on studying in Ghana this summer to learn more. But I digress.) The good news with Grade 6 is that I was only responsible for their portion of the middle school concert, and my friend was responsible for Grades 7 & 8. My students and I managed to work out three pieces to perform, all the while worrying that it wouldn't be enough. Because there needed to be a holiday-y theme, I looked up some Christmas songs that others have performed with the ensembles I was teaching (gotta love technology and social media!). At first, the kids were super excited because they voted to perform "Jolly Old St. Nicholas" with one of the ensembles. They were excited because they sang it last year, so they were familiar with it. Once we got into rehearsals, they started to get very frustrated because it sounded so different than what they were used to. Because they didn't like it, they started shutting down. It was really hard for me to see them struggling, so after a heart-to-heart with the other music teacher (and many tears of frustration on my part), I told my students that I had come up with another plan. They would showcase things we do in class, and we would just do an audience singalong with "Jingle Bells" at the end of our portion of the concert to fulfill the requirement to have a holiday theme. When I announced this, I thought they would be relieved. Ecstatic. Grateful. SOMETHING. So when they all gave me blank stares, I was confused. As it turns out, they decided that they had already invested so much time and energy into the performance that they didn't want to turn back. 

And this is what it's like to work with pre-teens. (Haha!)

Once we had that bump in the road, our final rehearsals became even more focused. It's no secret that Grade 6 is my favorite group to work with in my new position. I have two sections. We were practicing in isolation of one another, which seemed to be going okay. On the day of our dress rehearsal, I got goosebumps with all of the combined voices and all of the instrumental parts.

I spent most of that week going home and straight to bed, as I was nursing a horrendous cold. I think all the stress was finally catching up with me, as I put in many, many extra hours between the three concerts. By Friday morning, I was happy to be healthy enough to wake up and run. Nothing shakes out my jitters like a good morning workout. That day, I finished running well before sunrise so that I could get to work early. I needed to get everything set up for our final dress rehearsal and then the performance that would follow that evening. As with most music teachers, I was still teaching a full schedule in addition to my dress rehearsals, so my schedule was quite hectic. 

As a part of the middle school concert, we did a combined piece with all grade levels. The other music classes are choral ensembles, so my students learned a piece to sing, and I conducted it! I haven't formally conducted a large ensemble in a formal choral setting like that since I was student teaching over eight years ago. I was actually nervous! In rehearsals, though, it all came back to me. I remembered how to listen and offer corrections, and it was actually kind of fun.

Friday, December 2nd at exactly 6:00 p.m. was my debut to parents as the new music teacher at YIS. My 6th graders are a tough bunch, but when they got up on that stage, they performed EXACTLY the way they do with me in class. They were lively. They had fun. I had fun. It was all such a blur, and I couldn't stop smiling. I am so, so proud of those students. And the best part? When the concert was over, my first thought wasn't, "Ugh. Glad that's over." The first thing that popped into my head was, "Wow! I cannot WAIT to teach them more!!" I think that means it was a success :-)


My pre-sunrise run to shake out the concert day jitters!

44 sixth graders. 12 drums. 8 xylophones. 5 rattles. 3 bells. 1 amazing performance!!

Notice the sweat and the ridiculously proud smile plastered across my face. I was - and still am - so incredibly happy and proud of those kiddos! (Pictured with Katherine. She teaches music to Grades 7-12. And in her spare time, she helps me survive all of my growing pains and learning curves that are coming in my first year here!)


I received a lot of positive feedback from my fellow teachers and admin. But then I received this email from a student - I think she is in Grade 8. She is not my student, but she was under my direction when I conducted the group performance at the end of the concert. Her words absolutely melted my heart and made me truly feel successful. I did what we all strive to do - to make an impact on just one student.




By the end of the concert, I was finally feeling back to normal. Granted, I had that post-concert exhaustion mixed with Friday night teacher exhaustion, so I drank a glass of champagne and went to bed by like 9:00 p.m. When I woke up in the morning, I didn't feel so great. I thought I had a case of Burma Belly, which is common around here. My stomach was a little queasy, but I thought that brunch would help. I met up with a couple of friends and walked around a small market put on by local businesses, but I couldn't quite shake the queasy feeling. 

That afternoon I had signed up to volunteer at Help Portrait, which is an event put on by teachers and students at our school. There were many different teams involved, and local less-fortunate families came to the event. Students provided hair and makeup for the family members, took a family portrait, colored with the children, and donated rice and oil to the families. It was an amazing event, serving over 250 local people in need. It was a fantastic event to be a part of. Originally, I wasn't going to sign up because it was smack in the middle of my three concerts, but the woman that I coached volleyball with was in charge of the event, and I really wanted to help her out because she is an awesome person to work with. I told her I could help if she had a job that required no planning or extra time, but that I could just show up on the day of the event. She put me at the front desk, where it was my job to smile and greet families as they checked in for the event. Perfect. 


Our gym was transformed! A happy side effect of being a team player is that I got to use these same decorations for my upper elementary concert on the following Tuesday.

Love this Santa sleigh!

Tables set up for coloring and arts & crafts for the kids in need.

Many different booths were set up to take the portraits as well as print the pictures.

Hair and make up station for the adult family members.

Team Smile - we greeted families and checked them in at the door.


I went home from the event on Saturday and spent most of the weekend in bed. The Burma Belly went from bad to worse, so I was trying to rest up. I had two concerts the following week, countless dress rehearsals, and very little down time. It was no time to be sick! Monday was still rough, to the point where I just couldn't eat because the nausea would get so bad. This was my heaviest day of rehearsals (of course!). I had my full upper elementary (Grades 3-5), followed by individual grade level rehearsals with each of those grade levels. In the afternoon I went over to the lower campus and had two more grade level rehearsals for that concert, and then after school came back to rehearse my after school choir. I still don't know how I survived that day, not being able to eat and feeling like I would be sick at any moment, but I did. I guess it was that little voice that kept saying, "It's for the kids. It's for the kids." 

By Tuesday, I felt so much better. I was so happy because it was the day of the final dress rehearsal and the concert! With my upper elementary students, I taught a play called How To Train Your Reindeer (To Fly). You see what they did there? It was a very funny play. I have always wanted to direct a play. When I taught in New York, all of the classroom teachers were required to perform a play. I often helped with musical numbers, but I always wondered what it would be like to put on a production like that. When I was settling on what to do for this concert, I decided to try my hand at a play. It was an IMMENSE amount of work, but as always, totally worth it! I am proud to say that all 53 students who auditioned for a solo part got to do something in the play. Whether it was a small line as a solo in one of the songs or a major speaking part, they all did something. It was a lot of moving parts, and of course I had one of my leads absent on the day of the performance, but another kid had been paying enough attention in class to step into the part. I rehearsed after school once a week with these kiddos and offered optional before-school practices that always had kids show up. (Now you see what I mean when it was all catching up with me?) It was a ton of work, and in the eleventh hour, a small voice in the back of my mind started to wonder if it would be enough. I wasn't showcasing each class. I wasn't showcasing every student individually. What if it wasn't good enough? I pushed all of that aside and went forward because that is all I could do.

Their performance, in my opinion, was AMAZING! I am immensely proud of my upper elementary students. I am sure that there are others who have different opinions, but all of the feedback I got from teachers was incredibly positive. The concert was by far the best performance they had ever done, which is exactly the time every music teacher hopes her group peaks, right? 

On a side note, I want to mention my New York position just one more time in this post. I try not to dwell in the past, but I also have to compare this to experiences that I know. In that position, I would spend dozens of hours making decorations and props for my show. It was often a whole team of colleagues who would pitch in to help. I also choreographed everything, or asked someone to do it for me. It was always a lot of work and always beautiful, if I do say so myself. This time, everything was student-made with the exception of a few posters I made for the song "Hip Hop Reindeer." The only reason I made those myself was because I was so sick the week before with a cold that I couldn't stay after school to supervise the students who would be making them. However, many classroom teachers pitched in and took class time to make props and decorations. I cannot express my gratitude enough for that - it was a lot of work, and the students were SO PROUD of it all. Additionally, I took time in class to have students design the choreography of the songs. It took a lot of extra time, but my Orff training made me do it! In my opinion, all of this really added to the atmosphere and the energy of the concert.


The only part of my show that was teacher-made

Yet another goofy, proud smile on my face. I am so proud of these kiddos!


That concert was Tuesday, December 6th. Like I mentioned before, I was miraculously better that day, just in time to coast through my final concert, right? WRONG. Wednesday morning I woke up with horrible stomach cramping - something I hadn't experienced until that day. I had woken up early to go running because I needed to clear my head and shake out all the nervous energy from the concert, and I hadn't been able to do so for the previous days because I had that stomach bug. I thought that I could do a light shake out run and it would make me feel better. By the time I hit one mile, I knew I needed to cut it short, so I changed my route headed home. I ended up running a little less than two miles that day, which isn't too shabby. I felt slightly better than expected and headed to school. As the morning progressed, I felt worse and worse. By lunchtime, I had to concentrate on not crying because I felt so miserable. That entire day was a bit of a blur. By the time I got home that night, I had a fever and was on the verge of tears because I felt so horrible. My roommate convinced me to stay home in the morning because my morning classes had already finished their performances. I finally gave in to her sound advice and emailed my principal. Officially, I called in sick on Thursday but dragged myself out of bed Thursday afternoon to run the 123 Campus rehearsal. My students were performing their dress rehearsal for the upper elementary students, and I simply had to be there. As soon as the rehearsal was over, I went home and went back to bed.

I teach music to Grades 1 and 2 at the lower campus, and another teacher does preschool, pre-k, and kindergarten music. We decided to team up and combine all of the grade levels for our winter concert. Besides the fact that it was way more appealing for both of us to share the responsibilities of our first concert as music teachers at YIS, we also decided it would be best for the littles to have experience in a large group for their first performance of the year. In the spring when we do class performances and grade level showcases, we hope that there will be less stage fright because students have already been in front of a huge crowd. We'll see if our theory is actually right!

For this concert, we agreed to do a play as well. (Hey, when I go for something, I jump in head first!) This play was called Elfis and the Frozen Princess. The play was shorter but also very cute and funny. It was a whole lot of work because the students are so much younger. Both of use worked endlessly to teach the songs and the speaking parts. Suddenly, right before performance week, we had a play ready for the stage! I was hoping it would come together, and if it didn't, I was banking on the fact that they are all so little and would look adorable in their concert outfits. Luckily, we didn't have to rely on the adorable factor because the kids were awesome! It was over 150 students in all, ages 3-8. I overheard another classroom teacher criticizing this performance, saying it wasn't as much work as the others, but she is obviously a person who has never taught primary before. The fact that all of those students learned all of those words, when to stand and sit, and did it all well?? I couldn't have asked for more.

On (another) side note: For those who know me well and know what a perfectionist I am, please realize what a major moment it was for me to not take that other teacher's comment personally.

Again, approaching the concert, I had those same worries that I had with my upper elementary students. Was it enough? Did I showcase them in the right way? According to the classroom teachers, admin, and me, the answer is YES. It was enough. In fact, it was more than I expected. I am one lucky lady! 


Another candid moment, this time directing my littles. I really do love my job :-)

Cassie & I got beautiful flowers and lots of praise from our wonderful admin. She was a DREAM to work with. I don't know how I could have done it without her on this concert!

Santa even made an appearance... and he approved of our show! (The director of our school - isn't that awesome??)


After the photos and the congratulations were all over, I headed for my appointment at the hospital. I am so glad I was able to get in because I felt awful by that point. It turns out, I wasn't being a wuss all week. I had salmonella poisoning, probably contracted from the place I ordered lunch from last Friday afternoon (never again!). The fact that I did all of that at such a high level of success while horrendously sick makes me so proud. I have always been a perfectionist and really hard on myself, so it feels good to be this happy and feel this level of success with my students right off the bat. I really look forward to the spring concert - my wheels have been turning and I'm ready to hit the ground running! We will do a showcase as I had originally planned for this one, so basically, we are going to Orff it up in my classrooms for the next several months. I can't wait!

To close this post, I want to go back to something that may not have previously registered: The fact that holiday themes were needed for my winter concerts. In Myanmar. A Buddhist country. I didn't expect Christmas to be a thing here, but I found out that it is. I was very pleasantly surprised by this, especially because this is the first year since I left New York that I have been in the holiday spirit. The last few years I forced myself to decorate and listen to Pandora Christmas stations in efforts to make myself feel "in the spirit" like I was supposed to, but it was really just a matter of going through the motions. This year, I think there are a lot of influences on my feelings, but I am actually excited about the Christmas season. I thought it was a bit ironic, considering I just moved to this part of the world, but I excitedly made a Christmas playlist on Spotify (over four and a half hours of amazingness on there - everything from Tchaikovsy's Nutcracker music to the ever classic "Last Christmas"!). I also bought a small gaudy Christmas tree for my bedroom and an even smaller one for my desk at work. I bought holiday-scented candles from this local organic candle shop that I am obsessed with, and I have overall been really cheerful, despite the stress and the health problems. I even went to a Christmas bizarre this weekend (can you BELIEVE that was a thing here??). I have been excited to buy gifts for family and friends. And most of all, I have been counting down my days until I go home (ONLY FIVE MORE DAYS IF YOU'RE WONDERING!!). I am sure my family is bordering on being sick of my messages about the countdown, but really they are just as excited to see me. Duh.

The front of the marketplace closest to where we live and teach (Junction Zawana) - photo credit to my friend Paul!

The Christmas bizarre at the American Legion, where I stocked up on the remaining gifts I will be bringing home NEXT WEEK(!!!).


Last night, we had our staff Christmas dinner. It was at a beautiful hotel venue downtown. Our party was outside by the pool, which is never a bad place to be. It was beautifully decorated, and the food was amazing. (I was happy that I could finally keep food down for this event!) I am on a restricted diet while my body is fighting the salmonella poisoning, but I was able to eat a lot of things at the party. I had to pass on the alcohol (boo), but that didn't keep me from having fun. It is nice to be surrounded by people you really care about when it's time to celebrate. Although I wasn't feeling well, I had a great time with my little newbie family and other veteran teachers at the event. I had to pass on the after party (karaoke - oh my poor, sad little heart!). I had to take the early bus home so I could get some rest, but before I left, we had a few moments for some holiday cheer and cheesy photo ops. 


The venue for our Christmas party

It was poolside. Guys, it's DECEMBER!

We're not regulars at this selfie business. #letmetakeaselfie

Stefanie and Daniel showing off their swing moves on the dance floor!

Just OK Club - minus a few (important) members who were unable to come

Beautiful lights and the festivities while we ate 

Love these gals. I was DYING with laughter over our cheesy prom photos!

One of the Grade 2 assistants asked me to be in this picture. It means a lot because sometimes it can be lonely as a music teacher, so it was nice to be a part of this moment.


I am happy to say that I am on the road to recovery. While I definitely do not feel 100% yet, my body is settling and I am slowly starting to feel better. If gushing about my students and their amazing concerts and my generally giddiness about this holiday season wasn't enough for you, let me just leave you with this little quote I saw today on someone's social media post today:


Sunday, November 20, 2016

Trail Run in Kalaw

The first weekend of November brought a new adventure for me. I traveled to Central Myanmar for a trail run in a township called Kalaw (#stefrunstheworld). This seemingly small, 2-day trip was actually a big one for me: First solo international trip. First running race in Asia. Longest trail run thus far in my running life. Longest run since the injury last year during the marathon. So many things! 


I am woman strong!


When I initially signed up for this race I planned to travel with another person, but plans changed rather late in the game. I decided to make the trip anyway, and I am so glad that I did! I have been on the hunt for races in Southeast Asia. Unfortunately, I started hunting too late, as most of them are half marathons and have either already taken place or are taking place in the coming weeks, which leaves me no time to train. It's okay though - a couple of them are on my radar for next year! When this trail run came about, I had to think about it for a little while. I am a road runner, but I thought that trying something outside of my comfort zone would be good for me. (That seems to be a recurring theme for me lately, doesn't it?) For this race, there was a half marathon and a 10K option, so I decided to go for the 10K since I am a novice when it comes to trail running. I have run a couple of shorter 5K trail runs in Florida (read: flat!), and I did a mud run obstacle course that was a 10K race in The Bronx a couple of times when I lived in New York. I had never actually heard of Kalaw before I registered for the race, but it turns out that many teachers at my school have traveled there. I heard nothing but great things about it, so I was excited when I headed to the airport early Saturday morning to catch my flight.


Map of Myanmar - I traveled to Kalaw for this race.


There were a few options available for traveling to Kalaw, including a long overnight bus. A 10-hour bus ride or a 50-minute flight was a no-brainer for me! I cannot take time off work this time of year because it is crunch time for concerts, so I decided the shortest option was best for me. I got to the airport early, and I was so glad that I did. It was PACKED. This was my second time traveling domestically here in Myanmar, so I knew the lines would be a bit chaotic. I was ready for that. Eventually I made it through check-in and headed to my gate with about 20 minutes to spare. I was a bit nervous about missing my boarding announcement. They make an announcement in Burmese and then in English over a loudspeaker, but it is often quite hard to hear. They also have a man walk around with a sign that has the flight number on it, but it's a bit hectic when they call for a flight because everyone runs to line up. Finally I decided to go ask someone about the status, and it turned out that our flight was delayed. This is not uncommon here, so I was not surprised. It was actually good news for me because that meant I could go buy a cup of coffee! Yay caffeine! After about an hour wait, they finally called our flight. We boarded a small bus that took us to our small plane, and boarding actually went pretty quickly. I settled in for the short flight, and less than one hour later, I was landing in Central Myanmar at Heho Airport. If that rings a bell for you, then you may remember that it was the site of my accidental layover on the way to Bagan. This time, I was going to Heho intentionally. (Haha!) 


The "line" for domestic travel check-in. (It's mostly every man/woman for themselves.)

Same airline I took for October Break - you get a sticker with your boarding pass!

Delayed flight = Mama gets her coffee :-)

Pretty good serving of food for a 50 minute flight.

First impressions: So pretty! #thatsalotofgreen


I went quickly through immigration (it's domestic, so I'm still not clear why they do this, but it takes almost no time so I don't ask questions!). I heard somewhere that Heho Airport was originally used a military base during WWII. It's kind of cool to be somewhere with so much history. As soon as I deplaned, my body instantly felt the change in climate. It was about 15 degrees cooler and almost no humidity! I was immediately excited to run in this weather. 

I walked out of the airport to the chaos that is finding a taxi. I was super tired from my early wake up time, so I agreed to the first guy I talked to. He asked for 30,000 kyats (about $23 USD), which is quite pricey for this part of the world, but it is a 45-minute drive to Kalaw from the Heho Airport, and I was too tired to negotiate with him. I climbed into his van, and as I did, a couple came and asked if they could share the taxi with me. It turns out that the man was also running the trail run the next day, and their hotel was very close to mine. I got to chat with some new and interesting runners, and my taxi was a third of the price. I'd call that a win-win!


Heho Airport - very quaint

The area where you get a taxi. Calling it a "taxi stand" is a bit too formal for this situation. You find someone who is willing to drive you where you're going for a price you're willing to pay. How you do that is up to you.


I knew that the roads were going to be windy and hilly because of my conversations with coworkers. I took a Dremamine that morning as a preemptive strike, and I was so glad I did. The winding and the hills ordinarily would have done me in! Thanks to the medicine, I felt okay and was able to enjoy the conversation as well as the views. It was raining pretty steadily (hence the delay at take off), but we rode with the windows down anyway because the temperature was absolutely delicious. I think it's the first time I haven't been drenched in sweat since moving to Myanmar in July! After about 45 minutes, we reached a little hotel perched on top of a very steep hill. The Dream Mountain Resort was sort of a splurge for me. Since my plans changed only about a week before the race, I was happy that anything was available, and I was incredibly happy with what I got! A "splurge" in this part of the world is about $70 for one night a four-star hotel, which included gorgeous views, a very accommodating staff, and (most importantly) close proximity to the start line of the race. I would do it again in a heartbeat!


The Dream Mountain Resort

I had a balcony with a view! Also, I immediately noticed those hills. My legs suddenly got very nervous, as Yangon is VERY flat!

I had my choice of beds! haha

So much space! 


I was very fortunate that I was able to check in early. I was exhausted but I worried that napping would throw off my sleep cycle, and I didn't want to be groggy for the race the next day. The race organizers provided two choices for dinner that night, so I decided to try the other restaurant for lunch. I had heard good things about Seven Sisters Restaurant, so I was excited to try it. The restaurant was very quaint, much like the rest of this little township nestled in the hills of Central Myanmar. There were many Western tourists inside the restaurant, which didn't surprise me because of the reviews I had previously read about it. I settled into a small table by myself and ordered some traditional Myanmar curry with coconut rice. It was pretty good. I wouldn't rave about it, but the options in Kalaw are pretty limited, so I can see why it's the top rated restaurant. When I finished eating, I decided to wander over to a market that was showing up on Google Maps. By this point I am a bit spoiled by markets in Southeast Asia - maybe even bordering on SNOBBY - so this market was just okay for me. I didn't end up buying anything. There wasn't much else around other than restaurants and hotels, so I decided to head back to my hotel. It was only a 15 minute walk, but that walk was almost straight uphill. I had already walked quite a bit and was very aware that I would need my legs in the morning, as these hills were going to be quite the challenge for my legs that are used to running on flat roads. There was an unofficial motorbike taxi stand, so I decided to be brave and try one. I had never previously ridden on a motorbike before this, which is crazy talk as a resident of Southeast Asia! I climbed on the back of the bike and dug my nails into the grip. My driver was very kind and went SUPER slow. I am so grateful for that because I was somewhat terrified. I happily survived the trek up to the hotel and am quite pleased at my little adventure (though I am not eager to go on one again anytime soon!).






I made a little friend during my lunch!




Quaint little view along the roadside during my walk to the market.

A temple-y sort of structure near the market.

The entrance to the market.

A small pagoda tucked behind the market.

Some stalls along the main road of the market.

Typical views in a local market - random things to buy and stray dogs lounging around.

I had to document this. I was only slightly terrified, but I survived - and managed to have almost no helmet hair! #success


I decided to relax a little bit and regroup. It was still early afternoon, so I wanted to make a plan for the rest of my day. I also wanted to take advantage of this gorgeous balcony, so I sat out there and drank tea while enjoying the views. I consulted Trip Advisor for some recommendations and made a plan to see a couple of sites in Kalaw. After a quick cat nap, I headed down to the reception and asked them to arrange a car for me. I wasn't sure how the roads were and I wanted to save my legs. A nice man working in the hotel told me, "You look like you don't need a car. You are very fit. [THANK YOU KIND MAN!] The pagoda you want is very near, and a taxi is very expensive." They gave me a paper map with directions to the Shwe Oo Min, which was the pagoda I was searching for, and they also recommended the Bamboo Buddha, which was supposed to be nearby. 

I'm very happy that I decided to walk instead of drive. It was a nice, easy downhill walk. I passed a golf course, and then thought to myself, "Oh how cute! They have a mini golf place next to the real golf course." Andddddddd then I realized that I was rather foolish. It was actually the pagoda I was looking for. Every time I think I'm becoming seasoned around here, something like that happens, and I am reminded that I still have a lot to learn...


Tea time with a view!




My trek to Shwe Oo Min

I figured out that these signs said, "Shwe Oo Min" in Burmese. It reassured me that I was going in the right direction. 

Like I said, I am so happy that I walked instead of taking a taxi!



"Oh look! Mini golf!" *face palm*


After passing through a military-looking gate, I found my destination: Shwe Oo Min. I read on Trip Advisor that this pagoda has a cave with hundreds of Buddhas inside. Some of the reviews said it was boring, but I think those are the people who say, "Once you have seen one pagoda, you have seen them all." I strongly disagree with those opinions, as I find differences and beauty in each one that I have visited.

When I first got to the pagoda, I wandered around the golden structures and looked at the statues surrounding the landscape. From the air, I imagined that this probably looked a lot like a chess board. Honestly, I started to feel underwhelmed and thought that the negative reviews may actually have some merit. Then I found the entrance to a structure and decided to go inside. This turned out to be the entrance of the cave. IT WAS SO COOL. The paths wound in many different directions. There were many tight bends that I squeezed through, as water dripped from the ceilings. I searched for bats but did not see any, so I bravely explored all around the cave. I was so very happy with the find! 


My paper map - Reminds me of my roadtrip with Leah last summer, and the amazing feeling of success us Florida girls felt when we navigated the mountains of Wyoming using a paper map and no technology! 

I made it!



Pagoda attire: Covered knees and shoulders, and no shoes.





















The entrance to the cave full of Buddhas.





There were buckets and slick floors everywhere because of dripping water.



















I went through that tiny little crevice! #tallpeopleproblems #letmetakeaselfie











I like this picture because the woman on the left provides a good scale for everything else.



As I left this very cool pagoda, I had to decide what to do. I could go back the same way and return to the hotel, or I could go try to find this Bamboo Buddha. I decided that I might as well do a little more exploring while I was out. Finding that Buddha was a bit more challenging on the paper map because it turns out that the map was not to scale. I began to worry that I was getting lost or on a wild goose chase, but I eventually stumbled on the temple that housed the Buddha. It was up so many steps, I began worry that I was overdoing it the day before a race. Another part of me decided I might kick myself if I came this far and didn't go look at the Bamboo Buddha. I trekked up allllllllllll of those stairs, and when I got to the top.... It was closed to foreigners. They were doing construction. I was tempted to say some bad words, but I thought that would be inappropriate while standing on religious grounds, so I simply turned around and made my way back down the stairs and the winding roads that took me to the hotel. The next day, I was actually glad that I had walked this way because part of the race turned out to be on this path, so it was nice to have some familiarity on such a tough course! (more on that later...)





These views definitely didn't suck!




There were stairs...

...followed by more stairs...

...which led to more stairs...

...and at the top, there were more stairs! (And a blocked entrance because of construction. Oh well.)




If you think they look cute, you should have heard the sounds they were making.

These views made me excited for the race to come!






After my afternoon of exploring (#paulingwithoutpaul), I headed back to the hotel to change for dinner. The race people organized a dinner on Saturday night because Kalaw is a super tiny township, and space would be limited for runners. There were two restaurants as options, and each restaurant had 2-3 set prix fixe menus. As I said before, I ate at Seven Sisters for lunch because I did not sign up for that dinner. I did reserve a place at the Red House Bar & Restaurant because they had a Western menu, and my body is rather fussy when it comes to what I eat before a race and/or a long run. Basically, I went for what my body knows, and they had a prix fixe menu with chicken, bread, pasta, and veggies. Perfect. It turned out that the restaurant was actually very new, and they were not as organized as they originally intended. This is actually somewhat typical for Myanmar, so it did not surprise or upset me. And I do not mean this in a critical or malicious way; it's just how it goes around here. 

When I got to the restaurant, I waited to be seated. They seemed a bit confused about what to do with me because I was a single, and it was a very small place. There was a party of three behind me, so they offered me to join them for dinner. Everyone at the restaurant was registered for the race, so I decided to join them. They turned out to be a couple and their friend, and all of them were from Australia. They were all teaching English at a local university in Yangon (it turns out that everyone running the race was from Yangon, so it was cool to interact with the ex-pat running scene in my city!). They were really lovely people - actually they were quite funny. They were walking the 10K the next day, which was also an option for the race. The friend was heading back on the overnight bus on Sunday night after the race, but the couple was on holiday and planned to trek to Inle Lake in the days following the race (that's a thing to do here). I thought of them as I ran the next day, thinking what a challenging hike this would be, and wondering how they did. I never saw them after the race, but I am hoping our paths cross again in Yangon at some point. 

The service at dinner was quite slow, and it ended up being sort of a mix of the different options that they originally made available. I ate something a bit different than I was expecting, but it was fine. After sitting there for two hours, I did not have it in me to wait for dessert, so I called the cab driver to take me home. When he was driving me, he asked why I was in Myanmar. I told him that I live in Yangon, and the locals always light up when they find out that you are not just passing through, that you live and work with their people (especially their young people). He asked what brought me to Kalaw. When I told him I was running a race, he laughed at me. "You run? You run a race? But you are woman! [and after turning and looking at me] Ohhhhhh strong woman?? Yes, you are woman strong!" This became my mantra for the run: I. Am. Woman. Strong.


That's us! Actually, the whole restaurant. Lol.

I only snapped a picture of the first course. The rest took so long to come out that I just devoured them. I ended up with some type of pasta with a tomato sauce. It was taking too long to wait for a plate with protein.

Other runners enjoying our carb-loading session. Lots of people seemed to already know each other.


I went to bed after texting with my best friend and then talking with my mom on the phone. I was a bundle of nerves and excitement for the race the next day. The details were a bit unclear (although that also is not terribly surprising), so I was not actually sure what time I had to arrive at the start line. I heard several different times, so I went with the earliest to be safe. I left my hotel around 6:10 a.m. (soooooo early, but typical for a race day!). I walked to the start line because it was only about 1.5 km, so it was a nice distance for a warm up. Along the way, a dog crouched and started growling and barking very aggressively when I came around the corner. I froze. I was really scared. I could hear my heart pounding in my ears. I thought if I turned and went the other way, it might chase after me. Besides, I didn't know where I was or how to get to the start line that way. If I continued on my path, the dog might bite me. I didn't know any other way to go, so I looked down at the ground so that I didn't appear to be challenging and slowly walked past the dog. It barked louder and lunged at me, but didn't actually try to bite me. My heart was pounding harder, my breath was sharp, and at that moment I was really glad that I had completed my rabies vaccination series! A villager heard my scream and came out. She shouted something to the dog in Burmese, and the dog trotted away while the woman laughed. Holy. Crap. After a few moments, I realized there was another runner walking behind me. I decided to join forces with him for the remainder of our journey, just in case. He was originally from Germany but was an ex-pat living in - you guessed it! -Yangon. He was an avid trail runner by the sounds of it, so he was doing the half marathon. He asked why I wasn't doing the half because I seem fit enough to do it. I suppressed a laugh and muttered something about being a trail running novice. I actually saw that guy at the finish line. It took him about the same amount of time to run the half as it did for me to run the 10K!

At the start line, we parted ways because I had a bag to check and he did not. I did so and then sat down to eat the rest of my trail mix. A man from Singapore named Tom was sitting next to me. He was also running the 10K. I remember him because I have an old running buddy in New York named Ken Tom, and this guy's mannerisms reminded me a bit of my friend. This Tom was very nice, and he said he liked my socks. His girlfriend was there to cheer him on because it was his first race. I finished my trail mix and start to stretch just as they gathered everyone to give details on the race. No map was ever posted, and we didn't even get bibs. This was apparently the most organized the race has ever been, so it was cool to be a part of it! 

After some instructions about the trail markers and an overview of the course, the half marathoners took off. A few minutes later, the 10K runners took off, and we were followed shortly by the 10K walkers. We ran down the road and did a hairpin turn, which took us straight up a steep climb. Most of us walked at the point, and I realized what I was actually in for. I was prepared to run the distance, but as I said before, Yangon is flat! I pulled myself up the hill, and at the top, I was rewarded with sweeping views of the hills. We had to run through what I thought was an abandoned railroad track, but then later I realized that I think it is actually still in use. I'm so glad I didn't know that at the time! The first 5K had its challenges, but for the most part I got to our one and only water stand in pretty good shape. I was feeling strong. I was still very clean. And I felt like I could actually do this. I high-fived a guy who looked like he was struggling and encouraged him to keep going. He was one of the many men along the course who obviously didn't want to be passed by a woman, so he picked up speed so he could stay ahead of me. I love it when men try to run like a girl ;-)

The beginning of Mile 4 took me through some beautiful gardens with very steep stairs lined with ornate oriental vases. This turned out to be an area of a resort. It was very narrow, so I could not stop for pictures, but it was lovely. The stairs took a little bit out of me, so I was happy when the ups and downs were over. At least, I was happy until a woman on the trail said, "Your socks are about to get very dirty!" (I love that my polka dots attracted so much attention. Haha!) I turned the corner and saw what she meant. I went up another steep hill, and on the other side was a steep downhill. The thing is, it had rained that morning, and all along the way, mud was packing into the grooves of my shoes. As I am a road runner, I do not have trail shoes, and my treads were quite slick by that point because they were packed full of mud. I tried to stomp and scrape some of it out, but it was no use. I had absolutely no grip on the slippery mud. After falling down about six times, I decided that crab walking was the best way to go. I went a couple of meters, and then hit a patch that was so slick that I just slid all the way to the bottom of the hill. My sides, arms, and hands were COVERED in mud... and it was SO MUCH FUN!! At that point, I giggled to myself about the "mud runs" I had done before, thinking about how babyish they seemed now. 

The downhill continued around the bend. I fell many more times and giggled every time. After a very slick downhill patch, a nice Japanese man helped me up. We continued ahead, as I was thinking to myself how happy I was to be done with that part of the trail. That happy thought lasted all of about two minutes, when I came to the section with no trail, but only logs and creaky boards. The grass had overgrown the logs at this point, and with my slick muddy shoes, I decided it would be safer to run in the overgrown grass. But it wasn't overgrown grass. No no no. It was some sort of stream or water that had this tall grass growing in it. I took a step in the grass, and my foot just kept going down. The Japanese man (my hero!) once again came to my rescue, and he pulled me out of the water. He took about five steps, and then I got to be his hero, as I pulled him out of the water at that point. There was absolutely no trail for a solid mile, and at that point, I thought to myself, "Ok. Now I'm ready for this part to be over."

Oh, the grass is always greener, isn't it?

Mile 5 got even harder. No trail. Very overgrown. Steep uphills followed by even steeper downhills. Finally we got to some flat gravel. As the voices in my head started cheering and jumping up and down, the gravel abruptly ended, as we had more logs and overgrown-ness. During this mile, there were huge chunks of trail missing, to the point where I had to jump over small patches to avoid falling down a huge hillside (that looked a lot like a cliff to me). And that's the point that I decided I was really ready for this part of the trail to be over! In my head, I could hear the guys that designed the trail, laughing to themselves in a malicious voice like a cartoon villain. At that point, I hated them with the fire of a thousand suns and began to consider what a fool I had been for signing up for this race. I still had over a mile to go. That sounded SO FAR!

Suddenly, we hit flat road. Ahhh, this is so nice! Yippee! Only a mile to go! I can do th-- OUCH! I took a step, and my lower back was in so much pain that it took my breath away. I came to a screeching halt because I was in so much pain. I was also screaming in my head because it was very apparent that the hardest part was behind me! Victory (the finish line) was so close! I only had sweeping hillside views and paved roads ahead of me! I knew where I was because it was the part of the road that I had walked yesterday. My hero had continued running, so I was completely alone. I laid down on the ground because it was too painful to even stand, let alone walk. I breathed and stretched and gave myself a pep talk. I could lay here on the ground and wait for the next person to find me, then help me get up and hobble to the finish line. Who knows how long that would take? - OR - I could pick myself up, mud and all, and carry myself to the finish line. So that's what I did. I became my own hero. Because I am woman strong.

The stretching helped quite a bit, so I walked (hobbled) the majority of the next half mile. I came to a guy on the trail that said, "You're doing great! Only about 3 km to go!" I did the conversions in my head. That's more than 10K. Because 10K is about 6.2 miles, and I was already at 6 miles according to my GPS (and about 600, according to what my body had been through!). I started jogging at that point because I figured I would finish sooner. The pain was subsiding so it was mostly a mild (major?) discomfort. I caught up to a much older man who was clearly a seasoned trail runner. We jogged for awhile, and then I mentioned that we were almost to the finish line because I knew this part of the trail. We ran toward the finish line together. In the last couple of meters, he took off. I could have kicked it into gear at that point, but it seemed really important to him that he beat me. So I let him. Because for once, I didn't care about the time.

I crossed that finish line, and I felt this rush of happiness. I DID IT! I was muddy and sweaty and hot and dirty and all kinds of smelly. And it was oh so good. It is only the second race in my life that I have run and not cared what my time was, and the first time that I was genuinely happy about that. 

I knew this feeling. It's why I run. That feeling of victory. The first time I felt it this strong was when I crossed the finish line in my first half marathon in Philly in 2011. The strongest was at the Disney Marathon in 2012, my first full marathon. I've had other moments like that too, like when I broke two hours in the Brooklyn Half Marathon that same year, and in many other big important races. But it's the first time I have felt it in years. I went through a bit of a dark time with my running - too many details to share - but a lot of it was because I was plagued with injuries. So running felt more like a chore, and I spent a lot of time over the past couple of years running scared. Scared I would get injured. Scared that I wouldn't be able to do whatever race I was training for. When I got injured during the Chicago Marathon, I immediately thought, "Of course this happened." But today, I didn't run scared. I slid down hills, fell in water, and jumped over missing chunks of trail. It was physically the most demanding race I have ever done, and even when my back was in so much pain, it never occurred to me that I wouldn't finish. It was such a freeing feeling.

That finish line absolutely filled me with happiness. I cried a couple of tears, not because of my back, but because I was just so happy. I hobbled and collected my medal, downed a bottle of water because it was blazing hot, and congratulated other runners. They were mostly half marathoners, but I didn't even care that I was that slow! Because I did it. And I am woman strong.

I found my friend Tom that I met before the race. He asked if he could take a picture with me, and then I asked to reciprocate. He kept telling me how proud he was of me. And all I could say was, "Me too." This is why I love runners. It's such a great community. We did not exchange information, but I hope that I see him and his girlfriend again. Running communities are small and strong, so I think it will happen.

After getting my victory picture, I looked at my GPS. It said 7.11 miles. I lost GPS several times along the trail, so who knows how long that "10K" actually was. I didn't even care about my time or my splits, or anything else for that matter. People keep asking me how long it took, and I still have no idea. Because all that matters is that I did it. And I truly did #runhappy that day. It's so good to be back!


Pre-run selfie. Look how clean I was!

The walk to the race - shortly after this, I encountered that dog, so I decided not to take anymore pictures until I was safely at the start line.

The start line. Here we go!

This picture does NOT do the steep climb any justice. But that woman's body language speaks volumes!

Pretty views! We ran through many villages, and the villagers lined the roads so they could cheer us on.





Those ties marked the path. Apparently some of the kids in the villages tore a bunch of them down and played with them, so several runners got lost. I've never been so happy that I'm slow because I wasn't part of the crew that got lost! (By the time I got there, they had figured it out and stationed a person there to give verbal instructions.)

My hero! (I helped save him too.)

My friend Tom from Singapore. His first trail run, and my longest!

Victory tastes so sweet. (It's hard to see in the picture because I was wearing dark, sweat-soaked clothes, but I was also covered in mud. You can see a bit of it on my thighs and a lot on my feet, but it was basically everywhere else, including my hair!)


I washed off my feet and went to find the doctor. They had flown one up from Yangon for the race. He checked me out and said that it was just some inflammation, and that I would be fine. (And it is now!) I stretched and headed back to the hotel for one amazing hot shower. My check out time wasn't until noon, so I decided to enjoy the comforts of my room for awhile longer. I kept catching myself smiling. 

After I checked out, my back was really bothering me, so I decided to hang out around the hotel. I ate lunch and was QUITE excited to find out that they had my traditional burger and a beer post-race meal. I ate it happily and looked out over the stunning hillside. After lunch, I just lounged in the outdoor area, reading my book while occasionally glancing at the beautiful landscape around me. The woman at reception was very kind and kept checking on me. She offered me a room, but I was quite happy sitting in the sunshine, enjoying the temperatures before heading back to hot, humid Yangon. Around 2 p.m. I headed back to Heho Airport. I decided that if worse came to worse, I could always do the wine tasting that I had done when I was accidentally there on my last venture! It turns out I was occupied talking to other runners. We really are a cool breed. 


My views as I left the finish line and headed back to the hotel. And then it dawned on me that those were probably the tracks I was running on!

Back at the hotel.

Victory laps.

It's tradition! (And it was a pretty good burger, at that!)

Wandering around the grounds to find a place to rest my back.









One conversation with my fellow ex-pat runner: Do you think they have enough time zones posted...?


I didn't end up taking many pictures along my trail run. Most places required my focus and balance, so the pictures are all in my head. I tried to describe it in as much detail as possible here too, because I think that this is a race I will want to remember forever. The race is long over, my back is mostly back to normal, and I am back to the daily (stressful!) life that is pre-concert time for a music teacher. This weekend was so good for me on so many levels. (1.) I fell back in love with running, and it's so nice to feel this way after such a long time. (2.) I am no longer scared to travel alone here. It's all about where you go, and being smart when you do. (3.) The nature of the quick 2-day trip fueled the wanderlust in me. I definitely want to find more weekend and/or day trips to do occasionally, because sometimes you just need to get away. There is so much more to see and do in Myanmar (and the rest of the world, for that matter). I'm already looking ahead for more races in Southeast Asia, but until then, I will continue relishing this happy glow that I have as a result of this weekend. And of course, keep wandering and keep running because... I. Am. Woman. Strong.


Don't worry, Central Myanmar. I will definitely be back!